Power steering hoses. Pat
G'day all,
It appears I have a new engine for Bruce on its way - a sub-200,000km 300tdi from a manual defender to replace my cooked 300tdi.
I will be changing the timing belt (unknown history) & welsh (welch plugs, expansion plugs, whatever you want to call them) before it goes in. Blknight has already suggested doing the external oil seals too.
My question is: What additional things can I do easily (and QUICKLY) while the engine is out?
Considerations: I really only have 2 full days to do this swap, so I don't want to get stuck half-way though - because I snapped a bolt replacing something that could have really been done at a later date!
Power steering hoses. Pat
P gasket
Waterpump
Rear main seal
Clutch
idler bearing if u have ac
Spigot bush
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
insulate the engine side of the firewall
Wouldn't hurt to check the clutch fork ( the pushrod has been known to punch right through the pressed steel ) also check slave cylinder and hose. As good a time as you'll get to do the clutch and rear main seal I guess too but you'll have to stop somewhere.
Check that the throwout race slides back and forth without catching on it's spigot shaft, the original were alloy and there is a cast steel one available as a replacement.
.
My current list is:
- Timing belt kit (full minor) OEM
- Welsh plug kit
- Gasket joining compound (new sump is dented - so using my old one)
- Rocker cover gasket (as I'll be setting the tappet clearance, so may as well)
- P gasket
- Dust seal for timing cover (crank, front)
- O-ring for crank shaft pulley
- Oil seal for crankshaft (front)
- Oil seal for camshaft
I'll also get
- Water Pump
- Water pump bolt kit
I may not have time for this, but if I'm behind schedule at least I'll have them for a future date. I'm also worried about shearing bolts (sheared them before on an Alfa V6 and a P76 V8).
I'll save the clutch, spigot, clutch fork & race for another time - but I'll be sure to inspect everything while I can. I'll be using the clutch thats on the new(er) engine as I don't have an alignment tool, although I'm a bit reluctant as its been sitting out of a vehicle for at least a year, meanwhile I know my current one was working fine and has been sealed....If I'm leaving the clutch etc in place, I'll also be leaving the rear main real in place until then.
By the way, does anyone have the tool required for holding the crank pulley while you undo the nut? (as well as a crank pulley puller?) There'd be a case of beer included in the return postage!!
I can't go the path of the breaker up against the chassis rail & hitting the starter as the engine is out of the vehicle. I also won't have the capability of knocking up a tool (no drill press, welder, lathe etc).
Air rattle gun should loosen the crank bolt
If you asked dave he would loosen it ,if it hasnt already left
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
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