Thread: Tubeless Rims for 130 Defender

Once when I was having new tyres fitted, the fitter was mumbling something about the tyres being harder to get off Land Rover rims than other brands.

Is that because:

• Tubed Land Rover rims have something that acts a bit like the safety feature of a tubeless rim.
• He was just one of those people who automatically criticised everything associated with Land Rovers.
• He hadn't yet had his morning coffee fix.

probably the last 2

Can I ask,what does the safety bead do?,I find it impossible that a tyre that has deflated will stay on a rim with a safety bead yet won't stay on one that doesn't,what holds the tyre on a rim that is a tubed rim?,the tube?????. Pat

Originally Posted by 2stroke

I've experienced the same problem with tubes, keeping the sand out on a hot windy afternoon changing tubes seemed impossible to me. I bought tubeless King brand rims but at 16 x 8 (the size recommended by Maxxis) they weren't a good fit with the 255/85s and seemed flimsy compared to the 130 rims. So now I'm back to tube type 16/6.5s with tubeless stems, like I always used to have, and no more flat tyres, even on a 10500 km Canning trip.
Some of the wolf type rims were tubeless, I take it yours aren't?

I appears that the sand was getting in around the valve stem which was spinning to the side due to the low pressures. I am looking for a set of wolf tubeless rims ARN4583/

Originally Posted by wizzid

I also run Cooper 235s on my 130 and have had a run of punctures and have been thinking it is the tyres that is partly causing the problem.
However the last puncture was repaired by an old time garage and the bloke said when ever you fit a new tube you must remove any stickers from the tubes
as they will rub on the inner tyre cause and cause a leak. Sure enough that was where the hole was. He reckons most young tyre fitters would be unaware of that.
Cheers Pat

Thanks. I am aware of the sticker issue and even went to the trouble of making sure all of the clear covering from the tube patch was completely removed prior to putting the tube and tyre back together again.

Originally Posted by PAT303

Just run your tyres tubeless,I've been doing it from way back in my series days,never had an issue. Pat

Yeah thought of doing that but with the weight of the Trayon and SWMBO's goods and chattels, I would prefer to run the tubeless rims if for nothing else but the peace of mind

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Tubes are fine if there is no need to air down as in the case of a truck or trailer wheels.

I have also installed tubeless valve stems into older rims designed for tubes without any problems.

Most of my tyre problems are not related to any brand in particular, they mostly are that after airing down for soft going, dirt gets between the bead of the tyre and the rim causing the seal to leak.

I must make a copy of that bead breaker that Bundalene showed on one of his threads, as I have a awful time trying to break the bead on the tyres fitted to Alloy rims. Sorry! When I looked, the pictures on that thread have been gobbled up by the Ethernet.
.

That was another reason for going to tubeless rims. With the low pressures of sand driving the sand could more easily get between the smaller tubed bead and the tyre

I got mud in the bead with my tubeless king rims but never with the tube type 130 rims, the bead lip is wider and more square on the original rims. Though being narrower would have helped too.