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Thread: Removing TDi radiator

  1. #1
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    Removing TDi radiator

    I am half way through swapping my radiator, and the old one won't come out. I have removed the hoses and brackets, but the aircon brackets are stopping it coming out. If I could remove the fan and cowl it might come off that way, but I'm not sure.

    Is there a way to remove the radiator without dismantling the whole front?

    The people I spoke to before I did this didn't mention the aircon so I am guessing the ones they did had no aircon and that said it was easy.

    It is a 98 with the locally fitted aircon.

    Jeff


  2. #2
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    I am pretty sure that when I took my radiator out to do the timing belt, I removed the fan and the cowling, Mine is also a 98 with local aircon so it should be the same.

    Tank's memory might be better than mine. We worked on it together at his place.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  3. #3
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    Townsville Nth Qld
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    Since no one else has given it a shot here goes, the aircon condenser has long bolts that goes through it into the radiator to the best of my recollection. you need to remove the front grill and remove these bolts. Let me know if I'm wrong. Baz

    Oops second reply
    Last edited by Bazzle218; 16th October 2014 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Beaten to the punch

  4. #4
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    yep as above
    condenser is bolted to radiator
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  5. #5
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    From memory I think that you have to take the intercooler out with the radiator, ie. lift them both out together

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the speedy replies everyone. I made a 32 mm tool on my milling machine to undo the fan nut as my 32 mm open end spanner was too wide to fit in the space. I watched a few youtube clips as well. Once the fan and shroud were clear the radiator came out, without the intercooler. I gave up when light stopped play, so will take the bike to work tomorrow and finish it after work. No photos as I was rushing to get done before dark and finished up wearing a head torch.

    Jeff


  7. #7
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    As you found out Jeff you need to remove the fan and intercooler. While your there clean out the intercooler and double check all the ic hose clamps are in very good condition. If suspect replace them.

    Cheers
    Michael.

  8. #8
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    When I undid the oil cooler pipes, they weren't very tight, but they were not weeping. Should they be like this or should they be done up tight?

    Jeff



  9. #9
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    Firm but not tight as there is an o-ring on the pipe.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  10. #10
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    Took it for a long drive today, the temp gauge never moved, where previously it would move up on hills. Then I got home and it looked like the Exxon Valdez under the bonnet, the upper oil cooler pipe had leaked, so I spent over an hour cleaning oil from under the front. I will have to look at it tomorrow, hopefully it is only the top one as the bottom one is a pain to get to.

    Jeff


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