Thread: how have you layed out your ex box?

Mitch,
I'm interested in this too.......Just a little bump for you/us! :-)

Also, are there any tutorials about moving the electronics across that you know of?

The mulgo store has the walk thru for relocating the under seat electrics, this is probably the best starting place for that. I'm holding out on this as I want to keep that side of things factory for now, but need what I do today to be "forwards compatible".
In the interim, I'm looking to run wiring for my aftermarket sub woofer, air compressor switches and power block to the ex box, while storing it on top of the gearbox inspection plate. From what I can see I just need to draw power from the battery box to the ex box via a grommet, or space it up and use the pre made holes underneath. Mounting on top of the gearbox plate needs longer bolts to be used on the fuel line support brackets.

Mitch
when you put in the Ex box you take out the gearbox inspection plate and replace it with the exbox. This couldn't possiblly affect the warranty as there is nothing coming thru the plate that gets "thrown away". Given the exbox sits about 30mm into this hole, mounting it on top of the existing plate will make it pretty high. When I did mine, dropping the exbox into the hole and taking about 15-20mm off the wooden spacers underneath the console box, I still had to take 20mm off the top of the console box to make it comfortable as an arm rest.
I have taken the exb power directly from the battery terminal, there are two spare tappings in the battery connector, I have taken the exbox power supply out thru the wall of the battery box with the existing starter cable cable, when you move the main electrics over to the exbox then this cable will go thru the large grommets that come over with the fuse box.

Cheers Glen

In the 110 I found I was always wanting to add something in the e-box as I did various projects so this time in the 130 I have a 5 wire, installed a fuse block and also a relay bar...can see pics in my build thread..


nugget's Defender 130 build

Originally Posted by neophyteguy

Mitch,
I'm interested in this too.......Just a little bump for you/us! :-)

Also, are there any tutorials about moving the electronics across that you know of?

Mate it isn't a hard job but it is easier if you take the seats out. The electrical side is not difficult. The box comes with good instructions and all of the connectors specific so they can not be hooked up incorrectly. Slow and steady and plenty of pics on the phone if you are not sure should see you through.

I fitted a 6 way fuse block for the starting battery and a 12 way for the 2nd battery.

The starting battery fuse block houses the headlights (upgraded circuit), spotlights & LED Bar and the 2nd battery block holds all of the usual Air compressor, UHF, power outlets etc.

After I had one of the headlight fuse holders melt and catch fire in western Queensland I put in circuit breakers prior to each block as a precaution.

The grey relays are accessory relays and the ones on the other side are the existing ones moved from under the seat.