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Thread: Warning New Puma Owners

  1. #81
    Join Date
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    A mate bought his Puma when they first came out in 2007. Absolutely loved it and I believe it gave faultless service over many trips to the east including Tassie until last year. Stopped at Balladonia then no drive at all so flat bedded back to Perth.
    Haven't heard from him since.
    When mine was in warranty and having work done to fix the shocking backlash I had to plead with the service foreman at the stealers to grease the damn shaft and all he would say is "It's not a service item....."!
    Not only bad design but shoddy workmanship from the assemblers but I note in my handbook they make reference to a Caltex (I think) grease for this.
    I may invest in an Ashcroft fix or I may just do the unthinkable......
    AlanH.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loubrey View Post
    I wouldn't worry mate, your vehicle will be among the best Defenders ever built. They seem to have gotten just about everything right just before the end of production.

    The shaft we're talking about is effectively the link between the Ford gearbox and the Leyland Trucks (Land Rover) transfer case. Land Rover had a shoestring budget from Ford for the whole Puma development and some R&D ended up being done by the owners who bought early ones. The difference between a 2007 and a 2010 was massive and the difference between a 2010 and a 2015 is pretty much again.

    I understand that Land Rover now admits that the shaft needs lubrication (it was assembled dry previously) and they now grease the connection, which is what I would have done, had I not been aware of and waiting for the Ashcroft engineered shaft. A number of guys had the grease fix on older Pumas from Land Rover and they seem to be fine. I'd imagine yours would be done like that from new though.

    Cheers,

    Lou
    So would this be the blue grease that has been seen leaking from a lot of recently delivered Defenders including mine. Some have even left their mark on the ground, mine didn't & since wiping this residue off it has not returned:


  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turtle130 View Post
    Martin, I try to use Penrite oil wherever I can (blind patriotism maybe) but it has stood every test I've ever thrown at it. Penrite pro gear 75-90 in the transfer, good old 80W-90 in the diffs. Gearbox I still have not checked (time poor) and this one will be the hardest choice. LR BOT382 is, quite frankly, stupidly expensive. If it does need oil, I will certainly give the pro gear a burl and see what the shift quality is like.

    That said, each to their own as far as oil choices go because opinions are many and varied on this sudject....
    I put Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90 in gearbox, transfer case, both diffs. Seems to be a good move. YMMV
    Neil
    (Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
    MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
    Nulla tenaci invia est via

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    when fitting the ATB to the T/C does it affect the center diff lock in any way?,when fitted it sends power front/rear when open but in diff lock it locks just like normal?,will a TDCi center diff bolt into a Tdi?. Pat
    Pat, the centre diff lock operates as per normal with the ATB.
    I can post up some piccies if you like, I think I have a few from when I did mine back in June.

    The TD5 and later t/cases use a different spline on the hub gear, but Dave can supply a new hub gear so the later centre diff or ATB can be used on a Tdi.
    This is the combo I have as Tdi spec ATB's were unavailable at the time.

    An ATB in the t/case is one of the best mods I've done, it eliminates a lot of backlash from a worn centre diff.

  5. #85
    lall Guest

    puma, transfer-case oil level (and gearbox)

    Does anyone know how far the oil in a Puma's transfer-case (ditto gearbox) is below the filler plug when Land-Rover's recommended fill/refill procedure is followed, given:-

    Quote Originally Posted by tuesdayfox View Post
    Thanks! But how can you check the level of transfer oil?
    and also, "Originally Posted by POD By the way, the filler plug is not supposed to be used as a level plug in the Puma defenders, as the transfer is mounted on an angle. The proper way to check the transfer oil level is to drain it out, measure it and put it back in"

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avion8 View Post
    So would this be the blue grease that has been seen leaking from a lot of recently delivered Defenders including mine. Some have even left their mark on the ground, mine didn't & since wiping this residue off it has not returned:

    Yes they now (did) grease them from factory, there was a service note about it some time ago from memory.

    other notes...
    *On the transfer case, the filler plug can be used as the level mark on a TDCi (puma), while the TDCi transfer case sits more vertical than previous Defender models, the difference in the fluid quantities, as already mentioned would lucky to be a cup full at best.

    *Also as often noted here, the important one is to not overfill the gearbox as it will leak from the front and rear seals.

    Regards
    Daz

  7. #87
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    [QUOTE=lall;2492136]Does anyone know how far the oil in a Puma's transfer-case (ditto gearbox) is below the filler plug when Land-Rover's recommended fill/refill procedure is followed, given:-

    Both are different..

    Gearbox - after draining add 2.2lts

    Transfer case - after draining fill to filler plug.

    Regards
    Daz

    P.S as others have mentioned the Penrite Pro Gear 75W90, I use it in all diffs, transfer case, and the MT82 gearbox (TDCi models). In fact I use it in most Jeep drive lines too.
    Last edited by DazzaTD5; 13th February 2016 at 11:26 AM. Reason: more info

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