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						Ok Thanks for the reply. Makes me feel a little better but I am fully expecting the worst. I will pull out the box/transfer and as others have suggested address any other issues while I am at it, clean everything, get the box checked for issues (if possible) and reassemble with new input seal. I will allow 2 weeks of hard work and raised tempers. I will document the process for all to see. Cheers.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
						Do you have a shed to work in. (air conditioned would be nice)
If so, I don't have a lot of free time but might be able to lend a hand.
I can borrow an engine crane short term.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						 
 
		
Thank you for offering JBoot51, you are a champion, should be more like you but there has been a development... I have to say I feel like an idiot but all is good, it would seem that the timing port hole on the BELLHOUSING!! is not the best place to try and pour gearbox oil into. Yes I discovered this after doing what I should have done in the first place and checked out the procedure on YT. I took it round the block again yesterday, got everything to operating temp and drained diffs, box and transfer- and boy did they need it. But lets stay in touch I am down the coat often and will call in and show you the Beast! Cheers
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
						Good to see you got it sorted.
You learn something new everyday.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Thats a wading plug. It may also be a rear main seal. Can you determine if it is gearbox oil or engine oil? The drip looks a little dark to be trans oil.
If you dont have a Rave manual get one as it helps a lot. If you need it urgently let us know and I will see if I can print out and scan the sections you need and email. Sorry assuming TD5 but should not be much different.
There is a specific sequence, but a lot of stuff can be done in any order.
Air box will need to be removed so you can get to the top bellhoousng bolts,
Remove tails shafts.
Remove centre pipe exhaust and front pipe.
Remove cross member.
Remove gear sticks.
Remove console and floor panel underneath.
Remove tunnel.
Disconnect all elec plugs to box and Crank Angle sensor to bellhousing.
Remove handbrake cable.
Remove starter motor.
Unbolt earth points on gearbox and trans case.
Remove clutch slave cylinder.
Disconnect linkages between gearbox and trans case.
Sling trans case to engine crane.
Undo and remove drivers side trans case mount and remove taking up weight on trans case.
Unbolt trans case from gearbox.
Slide trans case back and lower to floor.
Once done set up crane and slings to gear box.
Unbolt bellhousing bolts and take up weight. Slide gearbox back an lower.
You may need to jack up the car to get boxes out from underneath.
This is just from memory.
Can be done in about 1/2 day easily at a reasonable pace. About same to put back in.
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
Facta Non Verba
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