Thread: Is there any reason I shouldnt run 35x12.5R15?

Cvs and axels will be easier to break.
Saying that it depends on the type of driving you do. If you drive in rocks and run lockers theres a very sure chance you will break either. If you dont have lockers and dont climp big rocks lifting tyres off the ground you probably wont break anything.

Is yours a 130 or 110?

Also you could run zero offset rims but you will loose a small amount of steering at full lock. With -25 you will need extended flares or scrub rails that attach from bullbar to side steps.

Cheers
Michael

Check your local regulations - in at least some states this would be beyond the legal increase in tyre diameter.

John

There's no problem with 15" rims , The only problem I can think of with that size tyre without offset rims will rub on the inside wall of the tyre . That makes It unroadworthy , Then with offset rims you will have to sort out the guards so they over the extra width . Then you have to raise your truck . Then make sure your Break pipes are long enough , also look at caster angle , and your speedo will be out , I'm sure there are other things as well . But yes you can do It !!.. Jim

thanks for the insight guys,

Pacemaker - I have a 130 with salisbury and MD axles in the rear but standard in the front. No lockers, but considering a detroit in the rear. I like to go to the gnarly tracks offroad but I try to go as easy as I can.

Unfortunately for me Ive just moved to NSW, am I correct in thinking these tyres would be illegal in NSW?

They have canary written all over them. Pat

Wicks 89 I run the 35s on a 130. The rear end will be fine. Sounds as though you will probably break cvs. Theres a couple options. 1 is ashcroft h/d cvs guaranteed to not break at about $1200 a pair. Then you will break axels. So upgrade those with hy tuff.
2nd option is county cvs with hy tuff axels and fitting kit. If you buy the county cvs through MR Automotive they press a steel ring over the bell of the county cv to strengthen it more.
I have front and rear lockers and only engage the front when im really stuck. Im always waiting for something in the front to break as mine is all standard except the locker. My rear is all Maxi drive.
Im unsure of the regulations in NSW mate.

Cheers
Michael.

i run 33" 12.5 15. i did not know or believe that you could get a 35" on a 15

road handling will be rubbish, run about 45-55psi

the drag on sand, first gear take off will be greatly affected

more punches

more wall damage

my next tyres will not 12.5

Pros for 35" in R15

Your set up cost is less than RRP.

R15 rubber is cheaper than R16 rubber when it comes time to replace.

35" will give your salisbury the needed clearance under the diff

They look the goods with a set of flares.

Cons for 35" in R15

The side wall flex when driving on the road of the R16 35"s is something to get used to and can be disconcerting when the tyre rolls on the rim mid corner as the weigh shifts. R15's will be worse.

I previously ran 33" tyres on the stock 3.54 ratios with a TD5 and the taller ratio struggled on hills to get going and when driving technical sections I had to ride the clutch to stop the truck from going too fast for the situation. 35" will be worse and harder on the engine. Thus factor in a ratio change to 4.11's. A salisbury C&P is about USD500, rover C&P is about USD300 plus fitting.

Expect a 10% increase in fuel consumption pushing larger rubber. Braking is worse.

Whether you will break CV's and/or axles is 80% bad luck, 20% prevention.

As for diff clearance, to keep it in perspective, my salisbury on 35" has 230mm diff clearance to the lowest point. Steve223 running 35" on a P38 diff and a diff guard that wraps under the diff has 250mm clearance. A D2 on 265/75 rubber has 240mm clearance. Thus 35"s are not the be all and end all for buying diff clearance for a Salisbury when compared to the other LR diffs.

You will need flares even if you go a zero offset (neg 25 is better).

An understanding engineer in NSW should be able to justify 35's for engineering. It's an added cost.

35's are not simply a bolt on and look at me proposition. To do it properly requires following through with the other mods to return the truck to a balanced and functioning unit that is not a pig to drive.

MLD