Thread: Fuel tank baffle

Hi Peter , you don't say what the tank is on , is It a steel tank , and is the crack at the point where the filler pipe goes into the tank ? If that is where the crack is that can be repaired , It can be braised , BUT , only after strict safety procedure are followed , that's on any tank that has had fuel in . As for the baffle you could try getting It out through the sender hole , even if you have to try and cut bits off until It's small enough to drop out . Then there is also replace the tank , I paid $80 for a second one , that was steel , not plastic in Melbourne !!.. Jim

Originally Posted by jimr1

Hi Peter , you don't say what the tank is on , is It a steel tank ,

Thanks for that Info yes it is a steel tank in a 130 300TDI
Peter

Have decided to get the local engineering business to carry out the repair. on further inspection I notice that there is a black sludge in the bottom of the tank. Any suggestions as to the best material to remove it after the repair as I would normally use petrol and then rinse it out with detergent.
Peter

Originally Posted by pjlhat

Have decided to get the local engineering business to carry out the repair. on further inspection I notice that there is a black sludge in the bottom of the tank. Any suggestions as to the best material to remove it after the repair as I would normally use petrol and then rinse it out with detergent.
Peter

Before you can put any hear near that tank It will have to be washed out , and washed out properly with detergent , I would have soapy water 3/4 the way up the tank , plus bubbles , that way you reduce in area inside the tank . Thinking back I have also had a loose baffle , tip It upside down , and use snips , you will need a bit of patience , hopefully when you wash It out , the black sludge will come out as well !!.. Jim

Sorry Pete , I re read your post , the local boy's doing the repair will sort out how there going It . kind regards Jim

Just for info, The steel fuel tanks on the defender can be easily repaired using common plumbers solder, and bakers soldering flux, both available at the local hardware store. Brazing will damage the existing coatings , ( some type of galvanizing) and distort the thin metal. ( I tried it using silver solder). Plumbers solder is tough and flexible and not likely to corrode or crack.
I washed out the tank and removed the fuel sender, ( home made flatbar spanner required). Blow dry with an air hose,and left it in the sun to dry

I then put an air hose in the tank with a trickle of air to guard against the possibility of an explosive mixture forming. Though not likely if the diesel tank is well washed out and dried.
After completion of the repair of many small pits, (under the tank bash plate) I filled the tank with water and leak tested with a water column 1 meter high and left it for an hour or so. Then one heavy coat of cold galvanizing paint, and one coat of black under body paint, before refitting the bash plate.

That was 10 years ago, the tank is still going strong, I toyed with the idea of getting a second hand one at the time, but was worried I could be just getting another problem. The tanks have a tendency to fail due to pitting under the bash plate , it fits close to the tank bottom. mud and sand etc can get in there and not get out & galvanic action does the rest. I removed the bash plate for the repair, (by drilling out a few spot welds), and cut for' & aft' a lot of slots in it with the grinder. The slots provide very good drainage and make it possible to keep the space between the tank bottom and the bash plate clean using the hose. I also put blobs of neutral cure silicon (roof & guttering) on the tank to act as spacers to help maintain the gap between the tank and the bash plate. cheers simmo.