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Thread: New Defender : long term preservation

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pocket Rocket View Post
    You may also want to consider putting in the traxide headlight relay kit. Prevents the light switch burning out.
    Wasn't aware of this one, so thanks PR.

    I have ordered the upgraded Xenon kit, however I assume that they only change over the bulbs, and I should still do the headlight relay kit?

  2. #12
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    Corrosion prevent seems to be high on the list.

    Seems absurd that one should have to go to such lengths to protect a brand new vehicle. . I guess thats the nature of the beast!

    Thanks Manic, John, Jim, EastFreo and MrLandy.

  3. #13
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    Long term = 20 years? Of course no issue if u want to keep it inland and out of the rain. But you want to be able to take it coast to coast, coat it with filth, use it! It is not possible to clean all the muck out every time. And when it comes to contact between dissimilar metals, you only need to get those joins wet to accelerate their evil.

    So yeah, corrosion prevention is worth doing and the easiest/best time to apply it is when brand new.

    Even if you intended to keep it for 5 years, do it for the rover, for the love of this forum

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheatos View Post
    Wasn't aware of this one, so thanks PR.

    I have ordered the upgraded Xenon kit, however I assume that they only change over the bulbs, and I should still do the headlight relay kit?
    Without the relay all the current goes through the switch to the headlights which results in the switch burning out and and the headlights being dimmer.

    Drivesafe from Traxside can probably explain it better though. Here is a link to his website

    Headlight Wiring Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

  5. #15
    DiscoMick Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Wheatos View Post
    My brand new 110 will delivered soon, and I'm keen for advice on how to protect it against its idiosyncrasies as soon as I get it.

    I've read that the oil it comes with is not as good as it can/should be, or there's not enough of it (?), then there's the leaky window seals. Are these worth replacing when I get the truck? I'd like to improve 'Defenderisms' such as these so they don't cause issues further down the track (as opposed to protecting it from driver fun/error/stupidity).

    What would be the top 3 changes I should do early in its life to maximise its long term structural & engine integrity.

    Thanks!

    Is it window seals leaking or is water coming down the heater intake onto the front passenger floor? Just a thought. Whether mine leaks seems to depend on how strongly I spray it with the hose while washing. Most of the time it doesn't leak, but occasionally there is water.

  6. #16
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    I'm waiting for mine too, anyone had a firm date or ideas of build runs? I was just told April was a close off date to order and due to land between June/July.

    Haven't looked into it, but I imagine some sort of cathodic protection by sacrificial anode or impressed current. Must be some systems out there.

  7. #17
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mekon76 View Post
    I'm waiting for mine too, anyone had a firm date or ideas of build runs? I was just told April was a close off date to order and due to land between June/July.

    Haven't looked into it, but I imagine some sort of cathodic protection by sacrificial anode or impressed current. Must be some systems out there.
    I'm having a sale on a Bridge in Sydney and a supply of Hiclones and Fuel polarisers as well if you're interested

    But seriously - they dont work on land based equipment...
    Save your coin and go traditional methods (barrier) - If they (Electronic/Cathodic systems) worked at all the Poms would have them and not have the rust issues they all face..

  8. #18
    AndyG's Avatar
    AndyG is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheatos View Post
    My brand new 110 will delivered soon, and I'm keen for advice on how to protect it against its idiosyncrasies as soon as I get it.

    I've read that the oil it comes with is not as good as it can/should be, or there's not enough of it (?), then there's the leaky window seals. Are these worth replacing when I get the truck? I'd like to improve 'Defenderisms' such as these so they don't cause issues further down the track (as opposed to protecting it from driver fun/error/stupidity).

    What would be the top 3 changes I should do early in its life to maximise its long term structural & engine integrity.

    Thanks!
    Many people will say follow the service interval, 20,000 but my Dealer put a sticker on for 10,000. (Did they assume arduous use ?
    It turned out i changed the engine the engine oi & filter at 5,000 after 3 weeks of driving and had an independent give it a good look see. I will still use the Dealer for the annual service and corrosion test. So annual service by dealer, minor serviceat six months by independent. Will probably change all the drive line fluids at 50,000 km, which is lower than the recommended.

    And a professional Techylon (?) coating done
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyG View Post
    Many people will say follow the service interval, 20,000 but my Dealer put a sticker on for 10,000. (Did they assume arduous use ?
    It turned out i changed the engine the engine oi & filter at 5,000 after 3 weeks of driving and had an independent give it a good look see. I will still use the Dealer for the annual service and corrosion test. So annual service by dealer, minor serviceat six months by independent. Will probably change all the drive line fluids at 50,000 km, which is lower than the recommended.

    And a professional Techylon (?) coating done
    I like the idea of the independent service AndyG. Thanks.

    Is your Techylon reference in relation to corrosion proofing?

  10. #20
    DiscoMick Guest
    Definitely get it rust proofed and get that renewed annually.

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