Thread: Sway bars disconnects - waddya got?

Originally Posted by Chenz

My 2009 130 seems to want to have the sway bar disconnected all on its own as it has thrown the link on both sides now.

I am getting the replacement next week and putting it back on. With my Trayon camper on the back I can certainly feel the difference in cornering when the sway bar is disconnected. Performs more like my old 200 Tdi 110.

Thrown the link? I hear you! It happens regularly on the rear bar. I'd been off road the day before taking it to get my new suspension fitted and they called me back a couple of hours later and asked if I knew that I'd flipped both links on the rear sway bar. I know when I've flipped one, but hadn't realised that I'd flipped both as the car still drove straight.

On club trips I often have to spend my lunch under the car un-flipping a rear sway bar link and have to suffer all the "Land Rovers are so unreliable" comments 'cos I'm the only guy with spanners out...

Originally Posted by RVR110

Thanks, but I'm not sure about your reference to Army Land Rovers (I have a 2013 Puma 110). My question was for anyone who had a solution other than x-eng or sway bar removal, so as far as I can see, I haven't answered my own question...

Your right about army Land Rovers , they have nothing to do with your question , my point I suppose is they don't fit sway bars , up until now I didn't know what Land Rover you had .

Here is what I use, very simple but it works. You just need to be on reasonably level ground to disconnect and very level ground (think service station or shopping centre car park) to reconnect them without undoing any bolts.

There is a washer missing between the r-clip and the bush at the moment.

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I am in the same predicament. There's a big difference between the sway bars in and out. Just take a sharp corner at 60km/hr and see if the car doesn't nearly roll of the road. I had the rear out for a while and it was okaaaaaay but your driving needed to be adjusted. But in the case of avoiding an accident, there's not adjusting your driving, it get out the way or be hit.


So, atm, I just drive to the tracks, pull out both sway bars, and then reinstall them afterwards. Takes a while, but it's the safest.


I am interested in the modified Jeep quick disconnects though or something similar to what chook73 has done. My only concern being if it's not a tight fit, it will reduce the effectiveness of the sway bars.

I run heavy duty sway bars because of the weight of my vehicle but that allows me a little flexibility in the joints. Mine passed the swerve test at 100km/h with flying colours.

Originally Posted by Drew90

I am in the same predicament. There's a big difference between the sway bars in and out. Just take a sharp corner at 60km/hr and see if the car doesn't nearly roll of the road. I had the rear out for a while and it was okaaaaaay but your driving needed to be adjusted. But in the case of avoiding an accident, there's not adjusting your driving, it get out the way or be hit.


So, atm, I just drive to the tracks, pull out both sway bars, and then reinstall them afterwards. Takes a while, but it's the safest.


I am interested in the modified Jeep quick disconnects though or something similar to what chook73 has done. My only concern being if it's not a tight fit, it will reduce the effectiveness of the sway bars.

Does my Defender TD5 2000, come standard with out Sway Bars?
as I have just got it and it seems it doesn't have any?
It doesn't look like any have ever been fitted, as no signs of bolts or bracket marks on the steel.

The rear springs are very hard and don't allow too much roll,
I will be changing soon to something else, a lot softer as i don't tow a heavy caravan like the good old owner did.

I have fitted TerraFirma 2" +300Kg raised springs and 2" longer shocks, and had the rear sway bar flip the full 180 degrees and hit the spring.
The Army 110"s have never been fitted with sway bars....( perhaps that's why they roll over easily )....
Looking at the sway bar set up, if you raise the body the sway bar link is designed to pivot, by raising the body the angle of the link is no longer vertical when at rest position, so when the axle/diff housing articulates, the sway bar pivot basically goes horizontal, or worse the full 180 degrees and rest against the spring.
I thought of a fix while I was under the car, ( as most Landy owners do) is to lower the rear mounting points where the sway bar is connected to the body using a steel plate say 1/4 thick as there is plenty of length in the bolts, this would lower the sway bar, and make the pivot link more vertical?
Time too find some 1/4" flat bar. and test.

You can fit a spacer there for the lift but if you're running longer travel shocks it should be better to also move the sway bar a little bit forward.
I d'also like to run on sway bars again due to the (over)weight of my 110 but i have 2 problems - a long range tank and very long travel suspension.
I've fitted some extra long sway bar extentions but they hang under the 110 way too low so i removed the whole thing again..