There was another thread discussing this re 2.2 and simply unplugging the control cable. Yes the engine light comes on. And it was suggested simply plug it back in at Dealer Service time.
Am humming and harring about doing it.
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There was another thread discussing this re 2.2 and simply unplugging the control cable. Yes the engine light comes on. And it was suggested simply plug it back in at Dealer Service time.
Am humming and harring about doing it.
So they unplugged it and the MIL light didn't go on after three operating cycles? Or they unplugged it, ran the truck once, thought all was good and then posted it on the net? :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by Samblers
PS pretty sure that the Canbus will hold onto any fault code regardless on what the MIL light does - which will require a Scanguahe/Nanocom/etc to clear. That said, why wouldn't you just plug the EGR back in and ask them to take a look at why the light is on? The bloody things crisp out all the time anyway?
1000's of kms, they claim
PS you might want to take a look at the 2.2 Puma oil filter thread that's currently active - someone there has disconnected theirs.
Its a pain as I cant find where I read a very good report on disconnecting the motor for it once it was in the closed position.
This eliminated the light coming on, but of course stopped the unit from doing its thing.
I'll keep searching, as I think it was from the South African boys.
Although, I am keen on a BAS remap ;)
Yeah thats meQuote:
Originally Posted by n plus one
Im still putting up with the check engine light. But its worth it in my books. My 130 is a keeper!
The genius of EGR - Install a turbocharger to compress more air into the cylinders to increase efficiency/power.
Add to that a big intercooler to remove heat from the air to further increase efficiency/power.
Then!
Install a throttle valve to undo all that good work of the turbocharger and feed hot exhaust gas back through the intake to undo all that good work of the intercooler!
The net result...?
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Hey Chops, the SA thread your looking for is here; Defender Puma EGR blanking - 4x4 Community Forum
"What Dunelandy has done is he has stopped the actual EGR valve from opening by removing the gears. The ECU still thinks it is working as its still in place (The mechanism with "motor" etc) and if you could look inside while driving the "motor" will still be turning to open the valve....but because the gear is not there the motor turns but the valve doesnt open."
Obviously your EGR valve has to be working properly and in the closed position when the gears are removed.
Samblers; You can just unplug it, but after 3 cycles the MIL light will come on, I tried.
I ran around with it unplugged for a week or so and the engine was more responsive and less hesitant. But I couldn't bring myself to leave it that way for good, with the check light on full time. Once plugged back in the MIL light went off after 3 cycles. I don't know if a code was logged, as i don't have a diagnostics tool yet.
Blanking is pretty straightforward, it involves fitting a plate, with the right size hole, between the valve and the EGR cooler. You don't have to unbolt it completely, just enough to slip the plate between the two.
The key is getting the right size hole, that allows just enough airflow/pressure through without the ECU setting off the MIL. Obviously you still get some crap recycled back through the engine, but nowhere near as much as before the blank.
You start with the smallest hole in the blank and work your way up through the sizes until the MIL light doesn't illuminate. You can either buy a set off ebay or just one, and gradually make the hole larger as you go.
As was mentioned in an earlier post with the remaps, it's nothing to do with the map itself. Pete just offers the turning off of the EGR as part of the service, most places do the same.
Has anyone got an answer to if the warning light will turn off if i plug the EGR valve back in? I'm months from service time and dont want a trip to LR just to switch off the light
The various squawks, squeaks and strangled noises during and after driving are driving me nuts. Havent noticed any performance problems though ...
I've also got the bonnet off to look at how easy it will be to get this out if i want to clean it - christ it looks like a pain. I guess also that its advisable to have new gaskets before i attempt to take it out...
Thanks Ian - you answered some of my questions after i posted ...
The blanks sound like a good approach but at the end of the day, if the EGR valve s**ts itself (like mine sounds like its doing) youve either got to buy a remap, replace the EGR valve or put up with the MIL light on permanently
Yep?
Yeah, unfortunately it sounds like your EGR is on it's last legs, especially if it's doing it all the time. It wouldn't hurt to remove, have a look and clean if necessary. If I remember you saying, it all started after a water crossing. How deep was the crossing? Though i can't see how it would affect the valve, but i guess it's possible.
Yep access is a pain, it's a spaghetti junction of hoses, and from memory a couple of the bolts are easier to get at from underneath the vehicle. Removing the bonnet, as you've done, also makes things easier to get at.
When I got my 110, the spare EGR was brand new, and came with the gaskets. I removed my old EGR, cleaned it (it didn't need much of a clean, hardly any deposits. Nothing like some of the pictures I'd seen), and passed it on to my friend. Can't remember if he used new gaskets, but it would make sense. The new EGR I bolted on to mine.