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The easiest way to check, after you've been for a drive and pull up, before you kill the engine jump out and open the bonnet, then reach in and switch the key off and quickly stick your head under the bonnet and look closely at the actuator mounted on the turbo. You should see the actuator arm moving and hear the sound i described.Quote:
Originally Posted by Samblers
Cheers
Tom
Anybody that understands what an EGR Valve does would never replace or repair one, The designers know it will ruin your engine, but they don't care - as long as it gets past warranty. Its all about meeting ridiculous Euro EPA requirements.
Answer this question, Would you clean out the insides of your muffler and pour the contents down the intake of your engine whilst its running ?? Why Not ??
If you put your EGR back obviously your car is not a keeper !!
This is over 1/2 KG soot that was removed from the insides of an EGR and Plenum (AKA intake manifold) Euro 4 Iveco Daily engine , (3.0L CRD ) If this much collected inside the walls of intake system then think about how much went through the engine
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/730.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/731.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/732.jpg
AS I said before Ive deleted my EGR, (and DPF) and now the engine runs very clean - it does not blow any smoke under any circumstance, and the Oil is still like new after 10,000 km , Prior to EGR delete the oil was black after 500km.
(BTW this is not my engine, Mine is Euro5 which also includes an EGR heat exchanger on plenum chamber, I blanked off my EGR early on . )
... I'm just sayin
In order to blank EGR on remap it must be working
Is your vehicle out of warranty? Have you considered physically blanking?Quote:
Originally Posted by Samblers
Yes i'm out of warranty. Yes the case for blanking is compelling, not arguing that. Yes many have found excessive soot.
I didnt. 5yr old unmodified puma with 80,000km. Driven round town and on the highway and out in the hills/ bush. Original EGR valve. See pics.
If blanking without the warning light coming on were cheap i'd do it. It seems like its a $1000 BAS (or similar) remap or put up with warning light, potentially masking other faults. Clearly the goal for everyone should be a clean, working but blanked (with plates) EGR valve, with remap.
$1000 for the remap seems like a lot of money for something i wasnt even thinking about this time last week. You bought the remap, how about the intercooler to go with it? The turbo hoses? The centre muffler? And so on. $$$$
So i think the case for cleaning a noisy/ dieing EGR valve remains valid, given that if it fails you're stuffed - you'll still need a working EGR valve (new or fixed) for the remap, plus hassle to remove/fit (took me 5hrs), wait for parts from BAS UK etc., so I gave it a go.
I havent driven the car but i started/stopped ignition a few times and the EGR chugga-chugga-chugga is now very smooth and quiet. I couldnt hear it operating on throttle blips, as i could before, though need to drive to check this. But otherwise source of noise confirmed I think. So i've bought myself some time, during which i can ponder and plan for the remap thing.
Putting all these thoughts down on the forum to assist others (like me) in the future with their decision-making :BigThumb:
i removed the black bracket on the right for better access
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/697.jpg
two coffees in...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/698.jpg
EGR valve condition as removed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/699.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/700.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/701.jpg
be prepared to create many such socket set contraption as this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/702.jpg
Ah hah, good to see you gave it a go. I do like that socket contraption you constructed.:BigThumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Samblers
Your EGR looks to be in the same condition as the one I passed on to my friend.
I agree that using a blanking plate with a hole, is pretty pointless, but some people seem to go that way.
The only blank I would do is a solid plate, with the map that close's, deletes the valve for good.
Hopefully all goes well after a test drive.
There is also the other option of removing the gears out of the valve itself, as was done by the SA forum member. Though he hasn't posted since August last year, when he said his Puma was "still running no problem". But the valve does have to be operational and closed at the time.
Goingbush, I understand exactly what your saying, but the funds just aren't there for a $1000 remap at the moment. I've had other more pressing things to sort since purchase.
It does seem an expensive way just to delete the EGR. But once tax time comes around, that's the bullet I'm prepared to bite. I'm not really interested in the performance side, and won't be going down the avenue of intercooler, hoses, etc etc. Though from what I understand, the new tool that Pete at BAS has developed can also be used as a diagnostics device. So that may help justify the purchase to my better half somewhat.
There were many such variations! And there was much swearing. Lucky i dont have hands with big sausage fingers.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozy013
I found subsequent posts saying that the warning lights did eventually come on and then different posts again from SA stating that Land Rovers in that region might have a different ECU/map which allow then to unplug with no lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozy013
Whatever the case, i found no posts from UK/European or Australian defender owners able to unplug or remove gears without the light coming on. I think the instrumentation takes whatever (pressure? flow?) readings is required from the actual gas flow in the manifold, as opposed to inferring it from the EGR valve position (which would be unreliable).
I read about just being able to remove the plug, something I will try as my vehicle was delivered to Aus by mistake. It has no ABS or TC, so maybe I can get away with it. Seems you can reset it just with the key, so it might be a good option for me.
When I pulled mine off I didn't own a uni joint for my 1/4" drive set, it was one of the worst mechanicing jobs I have undertaken in a long time. Getting too old to be lying on top of engines with my arms contorted into unnatural positions.
I'm planning on servicing the 130 tomorrow, so will be an opportunity to disconnect the wiring harness from the EGR valve and see what happens. I have a nanocom to deal with the engine light.
Let us know how you go with that