Thread: EGR valve/ chook death

Go the remap - enjoy the vehicle more and no more EGR eating your engine

Yep go the remap, use the $300 or so that you could spend on a new EGR and put it towards the remap, turn it off then blank it and enjoy.

Personally that's what I'm about to do, once the tax man comes to the party this year.
My EGR is fine, at the moment.
I pulled it apart last year and cleaned it. But it's only a matter of time. In fact I did have a second valve, which came with the 110 when I bought it. Previous owner must've had problems. I virtually gave it away to a friend whose Defender was making the same strangled chook noise yours is now making. He eventually went with the BAS remap, his 2.4 is a totally different beast to mine.

So this is the way I'm going to go,
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - BAS2 RRC Tuning Tool pre order thread.

If you want to go this way, just drop Pete a line, always very helpful, and he's just released his new Remap tool.

Hmmm, the remap option seems like a pretty expensive way to solve a squawking valve... more power/economy is always useful but i'm happy with the performance how it is...

Has anyone else had luck taking the valve out and giving it a good clean?

It depends if your rig is a keeper, in the long run, as Tombie mentioned, the EGR is not good for engine longevity.

They're simple to clean, just that access is a pain. The one I gave my friend was second hand, I cleaned it up before passing it on. It stayed on his vehicle for 8 months before he decided to go the remap. It was still working fine when he turned it off.

Another option is the blanking plates, though it's pretty hit an miss in regards to hole size whether you trip the MIL light and get the fault code P1103. Most people who go this way start large, (hole size), and work their way down till the MIL light comes on, then go back to the next size up from that.

Plenty of reading here, if you haven't come across it before.
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - EGR Valve Cleaning!

Deleting the EGR is not about any perceived performance enhancment, you get that from the remap . You have to have a remap to delete the EGR in ECU so you might as well get the tune too - don't cost any extra.

The reason you want to get rid of the EGR is to stop your engine ingesting soot, gunge builds up inside the inlet manifold , the soot and carbon residue from the exhaust when mixed with the PCV vapour make a horrible sticky abrasive paste. - this isn't just if you have a faulty EGR, the normal - as per design - purpose of the EGR is to let the engine ingest exhaust fumes , hence the name EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation

its exactly analogous to inside a smokers lung breathing in all that crap.

if you love your vehicle and want to keep it long term , not just the warranty period, then get rid of the EGR,

the other benefit is your oil will stay much cleaner for much longer, without all that extra soot working its way into suspension. And your engine will last much much much longer, EGR is the work of the Devil, I hope the greenies are happy with themselves.

I got my EGR and DPF deleted from ECU in my new Daily 4x4 , then physically blanked off the EGR valve itself. 2nd oil change in since deletion my oil is still translucent brown after 9000km , previously it would turn black within 500km of an oil change.

I'm happy to remove/blank the EGR if this entails more or less the same amount of work as cleaning it. Can somebody explain (simply/briefly) the theory and procedure behind the blanking plate... the post on Defender2.net lost me around about page 3

I did some more reading now i'm totally confused - the members on the south african forum just unplugged their (working) EGR's and no one reported an engine warning light or any ill effects.

Has anyone on here unplugged theirs?

I just want the cheapest method to be rid of the EGR and be clear of engine warning lights. I'm out of Warranty so no qualms there.

Why not just try unplugging it and see what happens? You're not going to harm anything, just that the engine light will probably come on as the ECU senses the anomaly in pressure and airflow.
I pulled the EGR valve off mine last year the day before our Kimberley trip, what an absolute pain of a job, can't recall what the symptoms were that I had but I suspected that the valve needed cleaning. Damn thing was clean as a whistle, so wasted my time! Mine has gone through the dying chook stage a couple of times, has come good without intervention. At present I'm finding that the engine stumbles when cold idling as the EGR valve opens about 30 seconds after starting; on a particularly cold morning it will stall. Might try disconnecting it and see what improvement there is, I can always reset the light.