Thread: EGR valve/ chook death

Thanks for that Ian.
Yeah I understand the whole process, and personally, I think its a good option.
However, even though mines squarking like a bitch on heat, I'm hoping it'll hold out till tax time and BAS

Yep, you and me both Chops, roll on tax time

I've made a new post in Group Buys regarding BAS remaps...

Cheers
Tom

an interesting development!

We drive a 300 TDI so I'm not up on all of the various electrical sensors that form a seriously big part of the Puma (and TD5) performance models, however I would have thought that - as long as you have a disgnostics tool that will allow you to re-set your fault codes - the better way forward when fabricating the blanking plate would be start small, log and then clear the code, and carry on drilling a slightly larger hole at each stage. For me, drilling holes in mild steel is easier than filling overly large holes with weld to form the basis for a smaller hole.

G'day Jode, you start with the smallest hole, so obviously the MIL will, or should come on. You then work your way up through the larger hole's, by gradually drilling out the hole, until the MIL no longer illuminates.

From what I can see I don't think anyone mentioned filling in large holes with weld.

I've just removed my EGR valve (breaking for lunch). It was removed operational but making the chook death noises before, during and after driving, signalling its approaching death. Pics later, but...

My thoughts/ observations:

1. It isnt very sooty. I read a lot of threads and a lot of people heaping sh*t on this valve and the idiot engineers who devised it. My car was driving fine and the valve is quite clean - regardless of the thinking behind this valve, it must be doing its job OK.

2. The gear-end was clean with no soot or dirt. Lubrication was minimal but it was there. I've cleaned it all off and re-lubed (less minimally). Theres also electrical contacts within the housing so a flood of lube is inappropriate.

3. Access is "limited".

4. Anyone putting blanking plates with drilled holes in is wasting their time. Youve achieved nothing. The inlet/outlet holes are of the order 20-25mm diameter. A 10mm hole (or similar) in a blanking plate will not restrict the flow of gas by any significant or even measurable amount.

If it still makes death noises on re-assembly i'll have to replace with new.

Keeping my (scraped and bleeding) fingers crossed

Are you 100% sure about the source of the "chook death noises"?

The turbo vane actuator makes a 'squeeking rasping' sound at shutdown as it makes a few rapid motions through its full range of movement. Presumably to test for any faults.