Wing top checker plate and plastic vents

**Toxic_Avenger** · 14th June 2015, 04:52 PM

I was gifted with a set of wing top checker plates for my birthday. From what I understand, they are the Mammouth brand, and they have the standard 5 holes for mounting to the guard, and the additional 7 holes for the wing top vents.

Now I've seen a lot of different guards, some allow the factory vents to sit recessed in the hole of the checker plate, others require you to mount the vents on top of the checker plate.
The ones I've got are the flat type, with countersunk holes for mounting to the guard, and a single bend in the sheet metal for the leading edge of the wing guard. They also have the vent hole under-sized so that the vent sits on top, and the screws for this vent pass thru the vent plastic, the guard, and into the wing top mounting hardware. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with this, as the vents will sit proud on the ridges of the checker plate ribs, leaving (what I consider to be) an unsightly gap.

I'm thinking of some options to make this my own:
1) Mill / grind down the checker plate ribs to allow a flush fit for the plastic vents
2) Modify (grinder surgery) on the plastic vents to match the checker plate ribs
3) Jigsaw a new hole in the wing top guards to match the form of the vent, and lose the extra support in the middle of the guard.

Wondering if anyone else has had this conflict of interest, or if its only me? I'm a sucker for attention to detail.
I know one doesn't choose checker plate for the aesthetics of it, but IMO, if you are going to add an eyesore to a vehicle, it may as well be a well executed eyesore

**alien** · 14th June 2015, 05:11 PM

When we picked up our Puma the guards where fitted with checker plate.
The vents sat on top of the checker plate and while there was a gap I didn't think it looked to bad.
I've since fitted snow cones and have the same gaps, but as said I don't notice it.

If your going to seal the edge of the plate with Sikaflex or similar why not use it on the vent also.
Done neatly it wouldn't look out of place.
Only thing is lots of cleaning if you want to access under the vents for any reason.

**Toxic_Avenger** · 14th June 2015, 05:51 PM

I'm thinking option 1 above would be the best course of action. It would allow any type of vent accessory to be forwards compatible, as well as fitting my aesthetic aim. If done with sufficient accuracy, the sections of removed paint could be touched up, and would sit under the vent, so would not be noticeable.

In a perfect world the vents would be flush with the plate, but at least this way there is some added strength in the middle of the plate as a result of the extra fasteners.

**Wolfman_TWP** · 14th June 2015, 06:33 PM

I have the Mammouth Wing Top chequer plate protection on my Defender. Plus I have the gasket kit as well (So it doesn't scratch the paint work). One doesn't really notice that the vent isn't sitting flush.. I attached the gasket to the back of the checker plating, then trimmed it, to tidy it up. See attached pics..

Wolf

**Toxic_Avenger** · 14th June 2015, 08:46 PM

Originally Posted by alien

If your going to seal the edge of the plate with Sikaflex or similar why not use it on the vent also.
Done neatly it wouldn't look out of place.
Only thing is lots of cleaning if you want to access under the vents for any reason.

Under my driver's side I've got a winch solenoid and may need to get to it on occasion, so sikaflex would be an unnecessary complication. That stuff sticks like **** to a blanket!

Originally Posted by Wolfman_TWP

I have the Mammouth Wing Top chequer plate protection on my Defender. Plus I have the gasket kit as well (So it doesn't scratch the paint work). One doesn't really notice that the vent isn't sitting flush.. I attached the gasket to the back of the checker plating, then trimmed it, to tidy it up. See attached pics..

Wolf

Thanks for the pics, looks good with your paint colour!
I've thought about what kind of gasket I'd use. What gasket type did you use, and how have you found it to perform?

**Wolfman_TWP** · 14th June 2015, 09:56 PM

Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger

Thanks for the pics, looks good with your paint colour! I've thought about what kind of gasket I'd use. What gasket type did you use, and how have you found it to perform?

I purchased the gasket kit from Mulgo, at the same time I bought the protectors. As they were recommended, and I liked the idea. So far the gaskets seem to be holding their own. They are a foam type gasket with a double sided tape backing. They are approximately 2mm thick. Wolf

**ProjectDirector** · 15th June 2015, 07:03 AM

I bought a pair of wingtop plates too but I bought 1.5mm thick rubber from Clarke rubber to use as "gasket". I am using s/s rivet nuts instead of normal locknut and bolt as it is a pita to get access under the left wingtop.
With regards to plastic covers, I am getting slightly longer screws to make sure I compensate for extra height.
I will post some pics during the weekend.

Tombie · 15th June 2015, 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by ProjectDirector

I bought a pair of wingtop plates too but I bought 1.5mm thick rubber from Clarke rubber to use as "gasket". I am using s/s rivet nuts instead of normal locknut and bolt as it is a pita to get access under the left wingtop.
With regards to plastic covers, I am getting slightly longer screws to make sure I compensate for extra height.
I will post some pics during the weekend.

I suggest you change those Rivnuts to cad plated versions before you corrode your guards!!!

Take a look at the Nobility table - Stainless & Aluminium are not a nice combination.

**ProjectDirector** · 15th June 2015, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by Tombie

I suggest you change those Rivnuts to cad plated versions before you corrode your guards!!!

Take a look at the Nobility table - Stainless & Aluminium are not a nice combination.

Oops!! Wasn't aware of that. I also have zinc plated steel rivnuts, would they be ok? What is cad plated?

Tombie · 15th June 2015, 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by ProjectDirector

Oops!! Wasn't aware of that. I also have zinc plated steel rivnuts, would they be ok? What is cad plated?

Zinc plated will be a lot better, paint the holes first to reduce metal to metal contact and further reduce the effect.

Cad - is Cadmium Plating

Zinc will be more suited as its closer to Aluminium on the Nobility table.

A small dob of silicone to prevent moisture getting in between the metals will prevent galvanic reaction.

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