Thread: Winch wiring PATH - how have you done it?

It's not on the wrong side to go to starter either.
Starter on passenger side.
All cabling to passenger side rail.

And you could replace the wiring to the starter with 70mm2
Or just keep going and to the battery

Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger

I've chosen 70mm2 cable for mine, mainly due to the length of cable required, and the recommended voltage drop for my winch (which I've factored at amp draw, first layer spool, at the winch's max pull weight).

So, n plus 1,
Did you run your wiring down the passenger side (LHS) chassis rail? Was this for the positive and negative cable? It seems you've essentially doubled back on the cable path (batt box to front rad, across to Driver's side, then back to wing top)?
Any specs on the fuse you used? I've got a T-type 400A unit ready to go in, but I believe this is a faster blow fuse than others (and more costly to replace if it blows).

Yep, LHS chassis rail. There's probably an extra two feet of cable in this approach but I'm 100% confident that the run is very well protected and unlikely to cause any issues, so I'm happy with the length using 70mm2. I also updated the solenoid to winch cable size (to offset the increase in run length as a result of remotely locating the solenoid box).

Upon reflection I now realise I ended up using this arrangement in a parallel supply from both batteries ( after reviewing my full current draw and the blow characteristics of the available fuses):https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/publ...?id=442&cat=30

It was the original starter fuse I replaced with a mega unit: https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/publ...id=2301&cat=28

At ARB in Perth we used to run to the starter motor for all defenders and earth to the block. I have this on my last 2 defenders and have no issues at all. You can run to the battery box if you prefer but unless it is used as a competition vehicle then there is no need. I have a Runva winch on my current defender and it has an 8.6hp motor and works well with this setup.

Cheers

Originally Posted by n plus one

Yep, LHS chassis rail. There's probably an extra two feet of cable in this approach but I'm 100% confident that the run is very well protected and unlikely to cause any issues, so I'm happy with the length using 70mm2. I also updated the solenoid to winch cable size (to offset the increase in run length as a result of remotely locating the solenoid box).

While I haven't measured it precisely...

How do you figure the extras length of cable?



Sketch above shows the 2 paths... LHS rail is likely to be shorter, not longer

Suspect you missed the full description of my cable run (a couple of posts further back), the extra length (relative to running down the RHS) in my case is the result of going LHS then to the remote mounted solenoid box in the RHS guide, then back to the winch.