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Thread: Winch wiring PATH - how have you done it?

  1. #1
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    Winch wiring PATH - how have you done it?

    Wondering what path you lot have run the cables from the winch solenoid back to the battery box?
    I have mounted my winch solenoid under the driver's side (RHS) wheel arch / wing, and need to find the best path for 2 cables back to the battery box.

    I've eyeballed some potential paths this afternoon, but ideally want to minimise cable length, and maximise the security of the cable from damage while offroad.

    Option 1:
    From D/S (RHS) wing top, down wheel arch liner, across front chassis outrigger, along the top of D/S chassis rail, up alongside fuel lines (over T/C) and into the inboard side of the Battery box.


    Option 2:
    From D/S (RHS) wing top, along inside ridge of the wing top to firewall. Along the rear of the firewall, attaching to existing cable mounting points. Down Passenger Side (P/S) wheel arch, dropping down onto P/S Chassis rail. Along chassis rail, and into front side of the battery box.


    Option 2 is a longer cable route (I roughly traced the path using some rope and put plenty of fudge factor in there) at 5m cable length. Option 1 would use less cable (approx 4.5m). Cable temps will be higher in the engine bay, and there is more tomfoolery to secure cables around the transfer case area (plus any risk by having cables with a potential 400A next to diesel fuel lines?).

    Is there another way that I'm missing? Keep in mind the solenoid is in the driver's side wing top, not on the front bar like many have it.

    Also interested to know how people have secured their heavy cables along their chosen path? I've been looking up things like Stauff clamps, P-clamps, and the humble cable tie... but also after any do's and Don't's in this regard. Last thing I need is heavy and expensive copper cable coming into contact with something they shouldn't (even if they will be isolated from the batteries for most of their working life).

    Stauff Clamp:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  2. #2
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    Could you patch on to the starter cable

  3. #3
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    IIRC starter motor on the puma is on the passenger side, and is generally not recommended. The exhaust (hot side) of the motor is on the drivers side.

    I'd prefer to go straight to the battery (or else all my work so far will be for naught - spec of cable etc).
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  4. #4
    austastar's Avatar
    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hi,
    This is on cab chassis D130.
    I came off the battery to an isolating switch in the front of the battery compartment (operated just under passenger's knees), out of the battery compartment via a cable gland and across to where I will eventually put more batteries just behind the cab on driver's side.
    From here go frontwards under thr body but onthe chasssis up to a second isolating switch under the right wing removable panel.
    By fortunate chance this was where the 1.5m cable supplied with the winch reached to.

    The soenoid is on the bullbar.
    I ran the red cable through 13mm garden watering system poly hose for extra protection.

    From the R wing cover, I went down the side of the radiator to the solenoid.

    Winch is a Runvar 12000

    Cheers

  5. #5
    n plus one Guest
    I've got my winch solenoid box in your proposed location.

    Ran from battery box forward along inside of chassis rail, across under rad, up behind headlight and over inner guard - seams to be working well in terms of winch function and cable protection.

    Split conduit over the entire run, cable ties to hold in place and fused with a high current slow blow Mega fuse. Remote-operated power on/off solenoid in battery box for safety/security reasons. 70mm2 cable welding cable (from memory).

  6. #6
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    I've chosen 70mm2 cable for mine, mainly due to the length of cable required, and the recommended voltage drop for my winch (which I've factored at amp draw, first layer spool, at the winch's max pull weight).

    So, n plus 1,
    Did you run your wiring down the passenger side (LHS) chassis rail? Was this for the positive and negative cable? It seems you've essentially doubled back on the cable path (batt box to front rad, across to Driver's side, then back to wing top)?
    Any specs on the fuse you used? I've got a T-type 400A unit ready to go in, but I believe this is a faster blow fuse than others (and more costly to replace if it blows).
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  7. #7
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    Hi I run mine from the battery box along the top of the chassis rail , over the the front cross member and then inside the back of the winch bar onto the winch . I used cable ties , plus hose for added protection as well !!.. Jim

  8. #8
    Tombie Guest
    LR advised me to connect at Starter Motor...

    I've also run it along the P/S chassis rail as per the Topix instructions... Cable ties...

  9. #9
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    My set up has two batteries through an isolator to some really big welding cable to the starter on a rv8, from there some more big cable to a big chunky brass terminal block that's on the inside wheel arch from there to the solenoids in the guards and on to the winch (high mount with 6hp) the big brass terminal block is a good spot to attach other stuff that draws a few amps.

  10. #10
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    Do you have any more info on this topix instruction? I don't have access to topix unfortunately.
    Was it specific to the defender, or your D4?

    At this stage I'm leaning towards running down the drivers side chassis rail, and crossing over alongside the fuel hoses which run along the top of the transfer case. There is existing brackets which are also used to mount the ex box, and are sufficiently sturdy. From there it's a simple matter of entering the battery box.

    I understand there is many ways to skin a cat, (or run cable in this case), but if there was any major concerns with running one way over another, it would be good to know in advance.

    Cable ties were up there for my mounting solution, only real concern was heat / road grit / rocks causing cable ties to break and cause the cable to hang free.

    Reasons for steering away from connecting to the starter motor are:
    1) It's on the wrong side of the engine relative to the solenoid pack location.
    1a) ...which would require either a longer or more convoluted wiring path
    2) I'm running 70mm2 cable. The starter motor positive is lucky if it's 35mm2. Connecting here would mean that the rest of the downstream wiring is just redundant.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

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