Thread: Interior alarm sensor

It seems like dmdigital has researched the alarm system and the volumetric sensor and wiring in this post below.

Puma Alarm System Advice Needed

Mike.

Bugger, looks like the info is for an earlier model....
But a search on the part numbers provided in the link show you what the ultrasonic sensors look like.

Thanks Mike.
Well looks like Oz spec doesn't get the interior sensor. If they weren't fitted for the 2.4Pumas I can't see why they'd bother for the 2.2.
And as someone in that thread says..."why is it that dealers know so little about Defenders!"

I guess that leaves me back at square 1, if it never had the interior sensor, was never supposed to have it, then it can't be the reason the alarm keeps going off.
I might try and persevere with the nanocom and see if that can find what's wrong. Assuming I can get it to find the alarm within 10 sec of key in position 2. Must check nanocom website for an update

In happier news, c'mon the hawks!

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Well after seemingly getting things under control, the alarm has reverted to 'random activation at the most inappropriate time' mode. Like 1am. And again at about 3am. Or 6am on a Sunday morning. Makes a good alarm clock I suppose. I eventually resorted to locking it with the key rather than the plip fob.

When it was previously going off randomly, the most likely culprits were eventually thought to be stuff directly wired into the battery, such as my UHF and DRLs (via a voltage controller) causing random voltage spikes and thus setting off the alarm.
The fuse to the DRLs was pulled out and things have been fine for months (I still haven't got round to wiring them in via ignition, but it's on the 'to do' list...).
I've also pulled the fuse from the UHF, so now there is nothing directly wired to the battery that wasn't supposed to be there originally, yet the random alarm still keeps happening.

I've managed to get the nanocom to connect to the 10AS module and no events are logged. I was hoping it might show up with a door switch or something being faulty. Anyway, I checked the inputs and all seem to be working fine, so again I'm stumped.

Can the brains trust give me any ideas??

The only thing that did seem odd, is that all the door switches show 'high' as an input when they are closed and 'low' when a door is open, however the bonnet switch is the other way around and is 'high' when the bonnet is up and 'low' when the bonnet is closed.
Seems a bit odd that it's the other way around.

Didnt even know the 110 had an alarm!.

I stated "no" on the insurance form.

Is there an immobiliser?

Yup there is an alarm and an immobiliser.
Should you ever lose the remote and unlock it with the key (after it's been locked with the remote), you need to use the EKA code to bypass the immobiliser (and shut up the alarm I guess!), allowing you start the engine.

Mine has an alarm, loud too.

I gave one of the assistants at work the keys the other day so he could load some gear into the back,he unlocked the rear door with the key and didn't disable the alarm. Could hear it from two levels up!

Went off again 3 times today...:banghead:

It's currently just locked with the door key, so has no alarm/immobiliser active.

Getting a bit beyond a joke now, I'm sure I'm gaining popularity with the neighbours!

Time to dig out the nanocom and see if I can deactivate the horn sounder part of the alarm.

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Do you have rear passenger door extensions fitted?