Thread: Recovery points

Sorry for the delay in responding gents, but to respond to Jackdef90's question required some daylight and time. :-)


I will have to experiment here and try to put the pictures into the spot in the text.....

The first pic is a comparison between my recovery hitch and a pretty standard one from a 4WD shop. It just happens to be a Bushranger one. They are all pretty much the same so don't hold it against that brand.
From looking at the pic' it can be seen how much material protrudes out past the tube with the shop one, when you realise that my cutback starts right at the end of the steel tube of the hitch. The further your shackle point is from the tube support, the greater the leaverage it has to bend the tube from the pin hole outwards. Many Reece Hitch's have the front support infront of the pin hole. Amplifying the problem. You can also see that mine has a lot of material that goes right to the back of the hitch tube. I actually have to lop a bit of to enable it to fit, as I made 3 the same overall length to suit some friends vehicles.




The second pic shows the underside of the Standard LR Reece Hitch. I drew a line on the side with my finger to show the end of the tube. The left hand side of the line is the end of the tube. The further back that you go into the hitch, the stronger the whole setup becomes. Pulling dirrectly sideways (and up and down) now puts as much load as possible onto the rear support as well as the front support. The front support is only welded at the top of the tube, which only really supports a vertical loads. Any sideways forces will twist and bend the tube. And also overstress the weld if it gets the opportunity. By having the hitch go to the back of the tube, we are now adding support to the front of the tube as the rear supports inhibit twisting.




I have seen quite a few twisted and bent Reece Hitches over the years. Many will take a recovery hitch, but can no longer take the longer tow hitches due to being twisted and bent from recoveries.

Unfortunately I can't remember how long the standard tow hitch is, but I may make a new one if it doesn't go back far enough for me to be comfortable. I do on occasions pull my mates boat which comes in at almost 4t with fuel...... But the load there is nothing compared to my Son's 8T snatch strap can put onto things.
At this stage the Standard gear is covered under warranty, so I am sure they will replace it if there is a concern.


Cheers,

Phill.

And for those without a hitch

Nugget Stuff

nugget stuff home
Oh , new stuff available ot buy

Thanks for the pics longtimer
I see what you mean.
I'm at sea at present so can't check, but I'm pretty sure my recovery hitch is quite a bit longer than the one in your picture. Don't know what brand it is as it came off my ex nissan.

Originally Posted by Patchy

Hi strange rover I was asked similar question about a year ago when I first got my defender I was looking at jate rings or any other options out there, basicly the general consensus was to go the APT steering guard and been happy with it ever since not to pricey and gives some protection so win win.

At the end of the day you will end up snaching more often then winching simply coz its quicker and easier that is Unless you travel alone alot.

Cheers Brian

I have been told that the APT steering guard does not fit with the TJM bull bar
Can any one confirm that is or is not so

I want to fit a TJM bar to a 2015 defender .......( which has no recovery points )
And then fit an APT Steering guard for protection and recovery

Anyone got this combination in place who can comment please

Originally Posted by landoman

I have been told that the APT steering guard does not fit with the TJM bull bar
Can any one confirm that is or is not so

I want to fit a TJM bar to a 2015 defender .......( which has no recovery points )
And then fit an APT Steering guard for protection and recovery

Anyone got this combination in place who can comment please

Might be best to ask APT directly, Ben's very helpful