Thread: Recovery points

Hi strange rover I was asked similar question about a year ago when I first got my defender I was looking at jate rings or any other options out there, basicly the general consensus was to go the APT steering guard and been happy with it ever since not to pricey and gives some protection so win win.

At the end of the day you will end up snaching more often then winching simply coz its quicker and easier that is Unless you travel alone alot.

Cheers Brian

Thanks Brian,

What price did you pay for it and where did you get it. It sounds just right. Did you install yourself?

Cheers

Shane

I have the APT steering guard too. Excellent recovery points built into this unit. I bought mine from Ben at APT in Brisbane and he freighted it to Canberra for me. I fitted it myself and it was easy.

Contact Ben for current price delivered to your place. He is a nice bloke with exceptionally good customer service. He goes to the nth degree to ensure you're a happy customer.

Two thumbs up from me.

Cheers

Shane As mentioned Ben is a top bloke to deal with very helpful if the link works will point ya right there...
APT Fabrication Custom Land Rover Parts & Accessories - Land Rover Steering Guards

and yeah I fitted myself very simple had it done in my driveway in under an hour.

Cheers Brian

Fantastic,
Thanks guys. I will get one ordered but it doesn't solve my current problem as I have entered the Team W4 challenge and was hoping to have it on before then. I will just have to use the winch bar jacking points or better still I just won't get stuck!! will call Ben tomorrow.
Thanks again

Shano

You may also want to enquire with the 'Expedition Centre' about the APT steering guard, as they were substantially cheaper on freight to Adelaide than what Ben quoted.
Top quality product and easy fit as others have said.
I had to 'address' the recovery eyes inwards a little to fit my ARB bulbar. as they fouled on the chassis mount of the bar.
Moved them both approx. 5mm towards the centre of the car with a copper/hide mallet.
Not sure if this would be the case on a TJM bar ?


cheers Cookie

It's my recommendation that you get a briddle and use that when you are winching or snatching.
Especially snatching as the forces involved can be much higher.
The bridle will put an even pull on both sides of your chassis, which will help eliminate twisting the chassis. They are NOT what they used to be, structurally.

If you want to keep your Reece Hitch in good condition, you will not use a commercial recovery hitch piece. The problem with them is that they don't go far enough into the hitch to transfer the loads correctly to to support points. This allows the tube to get bent and damaged, with anything other than a perpendicular pull. If it's only a 10 or 15 degree pull (to the axis of the hitch), you think that it's bugger all, but with 6+ tonne of force being applied by the cowboys, something will bend or break. I made mine because A/ As an professional engineer I was appalled by the poor designs I saw in the shops, B/ no one commercially makes them long enough (costs more in steel), and C/ I can. Get one made by your local machine shop. It's cost more than the crap they sell in the shop, but it will certainly be worth it. Also, make sure the machined tongue sticks out the tube just far enough for the shackle to have few mm clearance from the tube. We may as well reduce the bending forces while we're at it.

My $0.02 worth.


Cheers,

Phill.

Long timer,
can you show us your design, just curious as to how much it differs from my rear hitch recovery point, if it's still held in by the same pin as id assume it would have to be, mine is the same length that the tow ball piece slides in so I'm a bit unsure of how you've made it stronger?

As for those front swivel points I've got them they're good as long as you have the right bull/winch bar, if they fit snug after you've placed in the circlip then your bar has the right backing plate (about 5mm).