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Thread: Changing the "P" Gasket and taking the head off

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dromader driver View Post
    on my specifically calibrated hill, i had a pleasant surprise after removing the centre muffler.
    So far I'm just loving the smoothness as she revs and the willingness to pull from lower rpm. Where it used to struggle to pull 4th, the 300tdi is now a happy thing.

  2. #22
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    Re the P gasket, it's the front housing that warps and won't let the metal gasket seal.

  3. #23
    Jock The Rock Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by SavingTheDefender View Post
    Yes, I did. But proceed with caution as I still appear to have a minor coolant leak which means I am about to declare thermo-nuclear war on the 300tdi!

    Before I cry and pull it all apart a third time, does anyone have any other tips? Arrrrgh!
    Best suggestion



    Smart comments aside, as Rick mentioned above

    The aluminium surface need to be absolutely smicko, I chased dads P-gasket for a while. On the last attempt I touched up the surface with a single cut flat file, it had just started to corrode around the edges which seem to be enough for the gasket to continually fail. Last I checked it wasn't leaking anymore

    Perhaps

  4. #24
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    This was the original plan ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock The Rock View Post
    Best suggestion



    Smart comments aside, as Rick mentioned above

    The aluminium surface need to be absolutely smicko, I chased dads P-gasket for a while. On the last attempt I touched up the surface with a single cut flat file, it had just started to corrode around the edges which seem to be enough for the gasket to continually fail. Last I checked it wasn't leaking anymore

    Perhaps
    So I was saving my pennies to pick up an engine and gearbox via Greys Online. But the head gasket decided it couldn't wait. I was also looking at a 6BD1T (the 6 cylinder version of what you're teasing me with) but I'm now thinking a twin turbo 4BT might be sweet. Weight is about the same as a 350 Chev but the torque would be ballistic!

    She Who Must Be Obeyed has her nose well and truely out of joint at the moment with the truck so softly, softly for a while.

  5. #25
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    So it looks like my ongoing leak is due to a porous casting. Coolant is weeping not from the gasket area but about 2mm in - through the aluminium itself. Must be a hairline crack. Bugger!

    Any tips on where I can get a cheap ERR3736?

  6. #26
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    Bugger, just have to do a ring around.

    Maybe All4x4 at Kotara or Land Vehicle Spares at Silverdale for second hand, Karcraft or BMI for new.

    It was one of John Davis's mechanics that tipped me off to the housings warping, they see it all the time.

  7. #27
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    A good trick is, if you have a steady hand and a very small ally burr that fits a dremel, very carefully grind a tiny groove in the mating surface all the way around, not on the head though. This gives a place for a bit of sealant to sit in, rather than all squishing out, helping prevent leaks.

    mick.

  8. #28
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    Smile Ok. So we're back in business

    Dare I say it... No coolant or oil leaks from my 300tdi.

    I know that's a big call but we're looking good. The new OEM alloy casting (the housing for the water pump, which the alternator and the power steering pump also mount to) proved a little problematic as a couple of the holes were not pre-drilled to the correct depth. A couple of washers and some minor file action and I was in the clear.

    Call it overkill, but I've used both a new P Gasket and a light smear of Gasket Goo. Not the Blue Hylomar as it quickly failed both on the failed P gasket repair and the water pump housing.

    The system bled like a dream. Bliss!

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