Thread: Saving the defender

I'm sorry to hear about all your troubles. I hope you are able to figure it out soon. Keep your chin up you'll get there.

Nathan.

Originally Posted by Andy130

I started to strip a lot of the chassis back today...this is an adhesion problem - since I followed the instructions of the tech sheet to the letter, I can only assume that whatever was on the chassis was not cleaned off by the propritary cleaning agent.

I'm in two minds on how to proceed - its either 2k primer topcoat or recoat with the rust paint, then topcoat with a 2k.

In either case, Im now using wax and grease remover to clean down the chassis - even though we are talking a well prepped bare metal chassis, this paint has not stuck. Its either the paint sucks, or there is a contaminant on the chassis.

Sorry to hear about the problems with the KBS. I prefer the POR15 as I tried the KBS version, that is supposed to be self leveling like the por15, but it looks horrible on the rear bar and you can see every brush stroke that was made putting it on.

I even have some por15 on the diffs, as it was left over on the brush and I just slapped it on the diff to use it up and it is still there two years later. There was no cleaning or prep of the diffs just a quick wipe with a rag.

I know that people like the KBS because it is an Australian product but it isn't cheap and my results have been less that satisfactory, so I will be sticking with the por15.

Good luck with the rest of the job, it is looking great so far.

At this stage I cant blame the KBS....so I will put this down to user error - though I really think they should recommend the chassis get hit with wax and grease remover before the KBS aqua kleen - i dont think these water based cleaners have the power to clean off a chassis effectively.....

Ive used POR too in the past - good stuff, i went with KBS as it was cheaper.

Regardless of the outcome , I will post an update here

In the olden days before I or very many other people realised we lived in a fragile environment, I used a paint brush and a can of Super to start with. Then came degreaser and finished off with Palmolive and water. Metho was good for drying out the fiddly bits.

Epic. Finally getting the raptor liner paint on.

I love the look of this raptor liner, its exactly what I was aiming for

NOTE: word of caution for anyone thinking of spraying raptor through a HVLP gun ( as opposed to the schutz gun which will put it on THICK) - the recommendation is to use a fresh air mask, but asking around, I found a lot of spray painters simply use a spray painters mask. but on that point ,get a proper P1 spray painters mask, plus overalls, gloves and goggles. This stuff is toxic, make sure you have a lot of fresh air/ fans/ ventilation.

Andy it looks great, I didn't realise you were coating the exterior. Great protection.

You have probably already sorted this out but just a heads up, make sure this stuff is UV stable otherwise it will change colour as soon as it gets sun. Normally they have a UV stable clear that goes over it. Not sure about Raptor but it's still in the polyurethane family, worth looking into if you haven't already.

Can't wait to see it finished. This thing will be bulletproof by the time you're done.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Raptor is UV stable and tough as hob nail boots.

Paint job looks great Andy, keep up the good work.

Originally Posted by Babs

make sure this stuff is UV stable otherwise it will change colour as soon as it gets sun. Normally they have a UV stable clear that goes over it. Not sure about Raptor but it's still in the polyurethane family, worth looking into if you haven't already.

Thanks Babs, yes this is UV stable - this is their 'tintable' version - it comes as an opaque and you simply add the tint ( excluding binders) so you can have basically any colour you want.

Their black is not 100% UV stable - but i'm only using that under and on floor pans - seatbox etc where UV does not shine.