Thanks for all that info Boys and you took the time to write up, appreciated ✅✅✅
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Thanks for all that info Boys and you took the time to write up, appreciated ✅✅✅
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
any major plant manufacturer has them, cat, volvo, hitachi, John deer and JBC are all kit packs I've seen in the ADF, I think I still have a couple of the sample kit boxes down stairs if you want the details for CAT SOS oil sampling
Short version pumps and flows like a synthetic, skins like a mineral oil
If you know the operating conditions and condition of the engine along with the driver technique and loadings Id suggest using that as a control for doing the "blotting paper oil drop" tests then doing the same with the brand new from the bottle oil. Repeat this at about 1K Km intervals till your service.
on your next service, save some of the oil from the engine, contaminate small samples of it with a couple of drops of water/coolant, diesel, brake fluid and repeat the blotter test with the contaminated samples. Then you'll know what you're looking for on the blotting paper test.
Back to the ops original post...
Old 'trick'... Have you also 'smelt' the oil on the dipstick? 'Old' oil that has seen many heat cycles and use will have a distinctive almost 'burnt bitter' smell to it that newly changed but 'blackened' oil does not have.
And always change the filter with every oil change. What is the point in leaving a litre or so of old oil trapped in the filter to instantly 'dirty' your newly changed oil. None! The price of the filter and the ease to change it is insignificant compared to litres of synthetic oil. :)
FWIW, all 3 diesels I've owned (1994 Delica, 2007 Kia Sorento and 1981 Nissan Patrol) turned the oil back within a few minutes of running after oil and filter change.
My BIL insists that this is how they should be; he's a diesel mechanic by trade. I used a good oil flush concentrate and the old hilux diesel's oil is still relatively clear after hours of operation. Not as clear as the TD5 but in good condition compared to how the oil behaved prior to using the flush. So even though most people reckon that's how old diesels behave, it's not necessarily correct.
Surely the point is that if there is a lot of old oil trapped in places where it can't drain out, then the new oil will be slightly discoloured almost immediately.
On the other hand, if there are no places for some of the old oil to be trapped or if the old oil is diluted with an intermediate flush, then it will look a lot clearer.
How dirty the oil is after a change probably tells you more about the shape of the oil galleries and oil reservoirs inside the motor than it tells you about anything else.
Hey Chris, FYI I've just picked my Puma up from service. Here's a pic of my dipstick immediately after pickup. Looks very similar to yours I reckon, what do you think? New oil, new filter, slight residue of old oil visible, but nothing to worry about. Hope that helps.
Cheers
That looks normal for a dealership/workshop service. When changing the oil they would whip the sump plug out, unscrew the old filter, whack a new one on and put the sump plug back in. All in the blink of an eye. Time is money in a workshop so they wouldn't be standing around waiting for every last drop.
Mine looks a lot cleaner after an oil change because I give it a good 15 mins or more before putting the sump plug back in.
I've seen people tip a bit of fresh oil in while the sump plug is out, just to flush more of the old oil out, but thats probably over the top.
Yes agreed Beery. I also specifically drain oil warm when change my own so it flows freely, though the slight remnant oil staining the new is not really cause for concern. Cheers
Whoops