Thread: Multiple clunks on takeoff - not the diff

Sweet. Pat

Originally Posted by tangus89

Hey mate

The main clunk i had taking off was in the A-frame bolts which were rusted and loose in the bushes.

The drive line backlash was mainly my drive flanges which were so worn the internal splines were not far off letting the axle just spin freely. new ones all round and there's barely any slop.

cheers

Sweet, I had a lok at the whole A frame assembly tonight after work. I see there are the two main bolts as fulcrum on the balljoint tongue itself these are what everyone seems to say get worn out?

The rest of the A frame still has fresh lube on it from where the superpro were installed not too long ago but what about the two plates that attach the a frame arms to chassis? do these need attention or are they normally pretty good?

It seems that it's the using the bolts as fulcrum that is the design weakness causing the wear on the bolts? is that whats happening here?

I know A frames can be a hassle but I'm thinking if I do one bolt in and out at a time I shouldn't even need to jack the chassis or diffs etc? anyone correct me if I'm wrong here please

The ball joint flogs out not the bolts,go over all the bolts and give them a nip to make sure. Pat

not fulcrum.. clevis - it's been a long day in the hot sun

Originally Posted by blackapache

Sweet, I had a lok at the whole A frame assembly tonight after work. I see there are the two main bolts as fulcrum on the balljoint tongue itself these are what everyone seems to say get worn out?

Naa, it's the big 19mm bolts in the clevises at the chassis end that can flog out.
The bolts wear and the bush inner sleeve wears and voila ! we have a big clunk, yet the rubber itself is fine.

I went Super Pro there too, and as the inner sleeves were a little loose on the bolt shanks I wrapped them with shim stock and they've been fine for many, many years.
Bodgy, but it worked.

Originally Posted by rick130

Naa, it's the big 19mm bolts in the clevises at the chassis end that can flog out.
The bolts wear and the bush inner sleeve wears and voila ! we have a big clunk, yet the rubber itself is fine.

I went Super Pro there too, and as the inner sleeves were a little loose on the bolt shanks I wrapped them with shim stock and they've been fine for many, many years.
Bodgy, but it worked.

Any dramas pulling one and reseating it then the other to check them out - so I don't have to go crazy with the jack stands etc? It'll be a huge time saver just pulling one at a time obviously. Gotta work smart not hard...

What about the clevis's themselves? are they generally pretty tough or do the eyelets flog out there as well?

Originally Posted by PAT303

The ball joint flogs out not the bolts,go over all the bolts and give them a nip to make sure. Pat

All good there - I've just had a new maxidrive adjustable put in about 3 months ago now by MR Auto

Originally Posted by blackapache

Any dramas pulling one and reseating it then the other to check them out - so I don't have to go crazy with the jack stands etc? It'll be a huge time saver just pulling one at a time obviously. Gotta work smart not hard...

What about the clevis's themselves? are they generally pretty tough or do the eyelets flog out there as well?

It's a loooong time ago, but IIRC I placed jack stands under the chassis and used a bottle jack under the nose of the diff to stop it rotating and undid the pivot bolts. Can't remember if I dropped the clevises or not ?