Master
howdy all can someone tell me how long it should take for oil to go from the swivel housing to the maxidrive flanges, ive changed from one shot, to oil
only because the mechanic forgot to order the one shot for the swivel housing seems to be a bit but not showing any in the caps. replaced the cvs and the flanges 2nd set of hi tough flanges on the front of the defender in 4 years ? will post a rundown on the results of my previous problems rear diff outcome shortly cheers all
Master
There is a seal in the stub axle that needs to be removed for the oil to get through.
If the seal is still there then the wheel bearings and the drive flange will still be running in grease.
If removed, there will be oil in the wheel bearings and drive flange.
I think the HD flanges prefer oil rather than grease.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
RoverLord
What Jboot said.
I even goto the length of drilling a pair of 3mm holes and tapping them to take a sealing bolt so that the oil in the bearings can be checked and drained
some people also drill a small (2mmish) hole in the bottom of the stub axle to encourage oil migration, I'm personally against it but it does work.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
hi blk night question where in the flanges would I drill &tap the holes cheers.Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
RoverLord
on the face of the flange at about a 45 degree angle between 2 of the bolts that mount it to the hub. I go in perpendicular to the scallops and in the middle of the scallop.
done right the holes should come through the inside of the flange about 1/3-1/2 way between the splines and the lip that centers the flange into the hub
to fill get one vertical and the other just off vertical and add about 100ml of oil, then turn till the off vertical hole is just up past 90 degrees. Filll until oil shows up at that hole, turn to 90 degress (or just below) and let drain.
to drain rotate till one points down. you might want to start with one below horizontal and one on the horizontal plain to help avoid airlocking. (it also helps to jack up the other side of the axle
if you do thins mod ALWAYS fill and check the hub bearing oil first and then check the swivel housing oil as you will get transference from the hub to the swivel housing.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
Subscriberhi you can put a teaspoon of moly grease in the rubber hubcaps it will work into the splines. or drill and tap them 1/8 gas thread and put a tapered plug in. I started off at about 80 mls of oil, but find 60 works well as well.
the front drive flanges/CV s/ axles on my car are 200,000 km s and 20 years old. works for me.cheers simmo
simmo
95 300Tdi Defender wagon
RoverLord
thats exactly how I do it but I put 2 holes in to help prevent airlocking. (in adjacent scallops not opposing ones)
I dont advocate moly grease for inside the cap Ive found turntable grease being thicker and stickier doesnt wash out as readily as the oil works out past the splines.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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