Forgot to add, the white smoke has a strong diesel smell to it, and hangs around, would i be right in saying if it were coolant from a head gasket leak then the steam would dissipate quite quickly?
Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app
Ok, been a while and havent got much done to solve the problem. So far i have pulled out the intercooler, gave it a flush and clean, wasnt much oil in there. Cleaned out all turbo hoses and all look good. Replaced crankcase breather hoses, old ones were worn but no holes or blockages. Ran the engine with the oil cap loosened, it just wobbled about in its place, didnt get blown off so think crankcase pressure is not excessive.
No bubbles in coolant, and turned the engine over on the starter with the fuel solenoid disconnected, coolant level didnt rise -read on here somewhere this is a good check for a head gasket ?
Im starting to think the timing is out - if the belt has stretched a bit or is wearing would this explain the symptoms? Timing belt was done about 20k ago but dont know if they did the idlers and seals etc at the same time.
Is there an easy way to check the timing without pulling everything apart?
Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app
Forgot to add, the white smoke has a strong diesel smell to it, and hangs around, would i be right in saying if it were coolant from a head gasket leak then the steam would dissipate quite quickly?
Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app
If it is running rough from cold, with the engine running crack one injector at a time and tighten it back up.
The injector that makes no difference to the idling will indicate a problem with that injector or cylinder.
If a problem is indicated then swap an injector from a good cylinder to the bad cylinder and check again.
If the bad cylinder is now ok you have a crook injector.
If the bad cylinder is still bad then you have a compression problem.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Forgot to add that i have tried that too, all injectors seem ok, as soon as i crack them engine starts to run rougher and noticeable change in sound, so seems like all good for the injectors. They are only 15k old, fitted them a couple of years ago.
Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app
Any update on your problem ?
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
The fact you are saying, all is fine until it warms up then;
*its blowing smoke.
*And no turbo boost pressure??
---
Try;
Get it nice and warm (being a 300tdi, you will need to go for a drive to get it upto temp).
Then, (with engine OFF obviously), see if the turbo spool spins freely as you said it did when cold.
Regards
Daz
Sorry all for no updates recently, life has been somewhat hectic and stressful of late.
Dazza- yeah have checked the turbo both warm and cold and can spin it by hand, doesnt seem to be any excessive play and not seizing up.
Decided to bite the bullet a few weeks ago and check the timing belt. Found that the timing was out - couldnt get the locking pin in for the fuel pump when it was at tdc, all marks lined up and flywheel pin was in. Adjusted the fuel pump so i could get the pin in and removed the timing cover. Heaps, and i means heaps, of black rubber fluff (?) inside the timing case. Marked the pulleys etc and removed the belt ( as per blknights tutorial - thankyou very muchly Dave). Noticed that the old belt has a few nicks in it on one side.
And that is as far as i have got, havent been able to do anything on the car in the last three weeks thanks to that little bugger murphy throwing a spanner in the works :banghead:. Hoping in the next few weeks to fit the new timing belt, tensioner etc, get it all back together and see how it goes from there.
Will give another update once i manage to get back on the tools....
Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app
Ok, finally managed to get back to work on this. Spent the weekend re-assembling everything, and now it won't start. Tries to kick over but won't fire. I'm thinking I might need to advance the fuel pump?
Do I need to set it back to TDC to do this?
First time I've done a timing belt so it is possible I have mucked something up, but all the marks lined up perfectly, turned the engine over two full turns to check and everything still looked good. Pretty sure I got the belt tension right. As I said in one of my earlier posts, when setting TDC I couldn't get the timing pin into the fuel pump and had to move it back, so guessing that is why I can't get it to fire up. Do I just advance the pump or should I be pulling the cover off again and checking the belt hasn't slipped a tooth or something. (really don't want to pull the timing cover again if I can help it)
Got power to the fuel solenoid?
Yep, that was the first thing I checked when it wouldnt kick over![]()
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks