Thread: MY16 Rear Axles

Agree with your comment. After warranty is lapse I will be doing my own servicing

OK, ordered the Ashcroft flanges some months ago and fitted them today.

Mine is 1 2015 110 with the rubber seals.
Car is exactly 12months old and 11k kms.

The fronts looked sort of ok, but both of the rears were difficult to remove and once the flange came off a pool of rust dust fell to the ground.
Here are a couple of photos of the rear right side.

Car seems to have less clunk when driving, but that could be the placebo affect. It took me 4 hours this morning to do all 4.
I have greased the shafts with boating bearing grease. Still umming and ahhing about making them oil filled. Whats the verdict?

Note: rears didnt have shims between the circlip and flange. Is that normal?
The fronts each had 2.

Hi,

I greased my flanges a couple of months ago and it was only the fronts that had shims. This was on a 2012 110. I am going to order some ashcroft replacement flanges soon. Do the Ashcroft flange replacements fit under boost alloys? Do you have to remove the Boost Alloy centre caps to make them fit?

Kerry

Originally Posted by rgty_kmj

Hi,

I greased my flanges a couple of months ago and it was only the fronts that had shims. This was on a 2012 110. I am going to order some ashcroft replacement flanges soon. Do the Ashcroft flange replacements fit under boost alloys? Do you have to remove the Boost Alloy centre caps to make them fit?

Kerry

I have Ashcroft HD flanges (x4) on my MY2013 DCPU with Boost Alloy rims. No issue fitting.

Hi Karlz, thats expensive dust, Hard to believe landrover guys are too lazy to put some grease in the rubber caps at service time. or at the factory on assembly. That's basic lube 101, no metal drive shaft/flange combination can last without lubrication. If folk are driving their cars and never took 5 minutes per wheel to check under the rubber caps and put some grease in there, is it fair to blame landrover We know they're slack, we need to accept that and help our selves. regarding the grease, I recommend any grease with molybdenum di sulphide, ( the black/grey thick stuff),even when it dry it has lubricating properties. The little rubber caps are quite waterproof. cheers simmo

Originally Posted by karlz

OK, ordered the Ashcroft flanges some months ago and fitted them today.

Mine is 1 2015 110 with the rubber seals.
Car is exactly 12months old and 11k kms.

The fronts looked sort of ok, but both of the rears were difficult to remove and once the flange came off a pool of rust dust fell to the ground.
Here are a couple of photos of the rear right side.

Car seems to have less clunk when driving, but that could be the placebo affect. It took me 4 hours this morning to do all 4.
I have greased the shafts with boating bearing grease. Still umming and ahhing about making them oil filled. Whats the verdict?

Note: rears didnt have shims between the circlip and flange. Is that normal?
The fronts each had 2.

If you do a search or look through my older posts you will find lots of info with regards to the flange/axle wear.

I also have two videos here which show the wear: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0g...Uwpq2Qivaj_wbg

re oil lubed: Ive found removing the axle seal and allowing the splines to be lubed with oil from the diff is simply not enough. Ive had a few Defender TDCi models in now that had been upgraded to the HTE (brand name) axles and drive flanges, with the axle seal removed (as in the axles were well wet with oil from the diff) and the splines had still flogged out.

*Regular greasing of the splines works, say every 20K, which is easy done once the HTE or Ashcrofts (brand names) axles/drive flanges are fitted.

*The front as its not prone to the same amount of torque loading only requires the flange to be upgraded.
*The shims are only on the front axle/drive flange.
*The red rust dust is the fretted material that has oxidised.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

If you do a search or look through my older posts you will find lots of info with regards to the flange/axle wear.

I also have two videos here which show the wear: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0g...Uwpq2Qivaj_wbg

re oil lubed: Ive found removing the axle seal and allowing the splines to be lubed with oil from the diff is simply not enough. Ive had a few Defender TDCi models in now that had been upgraded to the HTE (brand name) axles and drive flanges, with the axle seal removed (as in the axles were well wet with oil from the diff) and the splines had still flogged out.

*Regular greasing of the splines works, say every 20K, which is easy done once the HTE or Ashcrofts (brand names) axles/drive flanges are fitted.

*The front as its not prone to the same amount of torque loading only requires the flange to be upgraded.
*The shims are only on the front axle/drive flange.
*The red rust dust is the fretted material that has oxidised.

Regards
Daz

Have you seen any difference between the HTE or Ashcroft parts in terms of wear?

Originally Posted by stewie110

Have you seen any difference between the HTE or Ashcroft parts in terms of wear?

my HTE's had zero wear after 200k....