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Thread: Fried puma ECU

  1. #11
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    I defiantly recommend contacting Pete at BAS, even if you're not looking at a performance upgrade, he'll be able to answer your questions in one go.

    Edit: Swapping your ECU in won't work, the vin info won't match so it won't start. Also it may be possible the 10AS is fried.... If the ecu is replaced a BBS Faultmate/Nanocom etc will be needed to do the injector coding, fuel pump learn, turbo actuator reset.... etc.

    Cheers,

    Tim

  2. #12
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    I'd go with Tim's and others suggestion. There some stuff on it here Downloads & Support - NANOCOM Diagnostics but nothing that actually spells out the process. I'd go with the expert advice option.
    MY13 Defender 90 LE "George"

  3. #13
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    Take the opportunity to upgrade!

    Get Pete Bell to send you a new ECU and Dongle, and get more killerwasps under your bonnet.

    It will most likely cost the same as a replacement ECU from LR anyway!

  4. #14
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    So just to confirm with the apparently dead ECU removed, the fuse no longer blows?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lump_a_charcoal View Post
    Take the opportunity to upgrade!

    Get Pete Bell to send you a new ECU and Dongle, and get more killerwasps under your bonnet.

    It will most likely cost the same as a replacement ECU from LR anyway!
    Might still have a problem as Pete needs info contained in the original ECU to program the replacement doesn't he?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    So just to confirm with the apparently dead ECU removed, the fuse no longer blows?
    Almost- what I did was put the suspect ECU into my own car. The fuse blew. Oh yes, and with the ECU unplugged from the dead car (actually with only the bottom one of the three connectors unplugged) the fuse does not blow, but the car also does not crank. Anyway the thing is that when I transferred the suspect ECU to my car, it replicated the same problem.
    I did a little searching and it seems it would be futile to try my own (good) ECU in the other car. Also my Nanocom apparently lacks the function to marry a replacement ECU to the vehicle, so will probably have to go to a dealer to get it going.
    I am looking at a 2nd hand ECU on UK eBay for about AUD$270, seems reasonable enough if it will work.

  7. #17
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    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by filcar View Post
    Might still have a problem as Pete needs info contained in the original ECU to program the replacement doesn't he?
    He may, but he will certainly know what needs to be done even if swaping in a standard ECU.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
    When did you last visit?
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/



  8. #18
    cuppabillytea's Avatar
    cuppabillytea is offline Loud Mouthed Rat Bag Gold Subscriber
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    I would have thought that Pete could copy the info from another, unfried, ECU post you a new unlocked one then when you install it you only have to enter the injector numbers and bingo. Then you'll have the choice whether to have a performance upgrade or not.
    Cheers, Billy.
    Keeping it simple is complicated.

  9. #19
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    And just to be safe, order the intercooler at the same time

  10. #20
    austastar's Avatar
    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hi,
    Hmmmm! I have had 2 welding jobs done on my Puma 130.
    First was tray mounts, I disconnected the battery earth for that.
    Second was a mod to the exhaust, and the tradesman was quite dismissive of my request to remove the earth.
    "Never had a problem, even with vehicles with heaps of computers."

    No problems with mine, so what could the difference be that caused yours to fail?

    Surely the exhaust is tightly connected to the engine block earth side of the electrics?

    Cheers

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