Thread: I'm Immobilised!

I believe it's the passive immobiliser. Mine did the same very randomly 3 times over a couple weeks. Seems to have corrected itself these days.
But I did get a slight cranking hesitation of .5/second on key turn this afternoon.

You are far more technical than I, I just sat there glowing it and trying to start it until it did. One time it took half an hour, another maybe 5 minutes. It seems to happen after engine is at running temperature and is shut down for a shot spell. Then attempted to restart. Well that was my scenario.

My thoughts was to see if I could ditch the passive idoliser and put a rat trap in. One of those expansive UK hand brake locks. Figured LR would want $1000 for another crappy immobiliser. I have had 2 so far in 5 years, I think that's enough.

Awwww! Cummon guys, sumwuns gotta 'ave a clew????????????????

O'wise it is 60-70 km on flatbed.

Cheers

RF

Mine start playing up in a 2010 110 about 6 months ago and wouldn't start no matter what I did, only get in with the key EKA didn't work.

First time it just started again after replace a fuse under the seat, 2nd time I had to sit there for about 45 minutes until it would start again, I have since concluded that I had locked out the alarm system and it takes 30 minutes to reset.

About 3 weeks ago I started having all of the systems you were having (except had blown the fuse again) and started fiddling around with the nanocom to try and fix it, and managed some how to get it going even though problems were still there (so I disabled the immobiliser with the nanocom whilst I could)

Last weekend I found the problem, I had 2 wires shorted out in the rear drivers door as they had melted and were causing the alarm system to act strangely.

You can diagnose this by disconnecting the the connectors for each door. The 2 rear doors are in the b pillars. The first door i checked was the one, so i didn't need to find the the 2 fronts or the load area door, but they shouldn't be 2 hard to find either.

Once I disconnected that door central locking started working again, and I had a working alarm system when I re-enabled the immobiliser.

Have you tried resetting the 10AS unit?

Let me know if you want some more information.

Richard

Well random no starts until a diagnostic tool is put on it, then well who knows...

But...
Apart from odd drop outs on the Defender TDCi immobiliser (which does happen to plenty of other brands), actually there is a post on here somewhere of a particular fuel station that always kills certain brands of vehicles including the Defender TDCi

Other items I've had fail on the Defender TDCi that prevents starting, or intermittent starting is a failing crankshaft position sensor.

So if its the immobiliser then find a repair that can disable the option thus resolving it.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by Wallaby Ted

Last weekend I found the problem, I had 2 wires shorted out in the rear drivers door as they had melted and were causing the alarm system to act strangely.

You can diagnose this by disconnecting the the connectors for each door. The 2 rear doors are in the b pillars. The first door i checked was the one, so i didn't need to find the the 2 fronts or the load area door, but they shouldn't be 2 hard to find either.

Once I disconnected that door central locking started working again, and I had a working alarm system when I re-enabled the immobiliser.

Good info, I think justin C (forum member/vendor) has picked this up on a number of Defender TDCi models.

Regards
Daz

Mine had a broken passenger rear door wire after 12 months from new. It's a hard, thin bit of kit so I pity a section of heavier flexible wire in. The other side went about 6 months later.
My only symptoms was the alarm going off when the kids opened the doors, otherwise all was normal. Perhaps mine didn't short.

I found that the 2 wires in the door had melted together and must have been moving when the door was opening and closing thus being intermittent. These wires had melted in the plastic tubing between the pillar and the door, but when I disconnected it in the pillar it came out in my hand

I think that the times that it blew the fuse it must have been a dead short (and caused the melted wiring) but the rest if the time must have been shorted and had some resistance.

Looking at the wiring diagram there are 4 fuses that need to be checked 6 and 7 under the seat; and 7 and 8 under the steering column.

Richard

He honks - he works :0)

Every suggestion above had been tried a couple of time, and rechecked for no result.

Anyway, disconnected 10AS yet again and left it disconnected while I put tools, meter test light and jumper leads away; now resigned to tilt tray in the morning. Picked up Hawkeye, and thought interrogate everything. Still no fault codes. 10as still disconnected.

Reconnected 10AS both plugs yet again, and then BIG RED LED! Ign on and he honked!..........and honked and honked. Jump in shut door stops honking use the fob and he locked and unlocked, cranked and started! Surprise, way back when, when looking for antenna, disconnected 10AS and had to reset both keys. Not this time.

WT, guess that 10AS reset involves leaving it disconnected for a long time????

Really still don't know what brought it back. Interrogating everything with 10as disconnected, 10as disconnected for an extended period well over 1/2 hour, of both.

Thanks guys, allowed me to clutch at straws, go back and do everything all over yet again, and snag something that actually brought him back. :0)

Cheers

Rick F