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Thread: Puma clutch replacement- starter motor out or not?

  1. 22nd June 2016, 05:34 PM #1
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    Puma clutch replacement- starter motor out or not?

    We're about to pull the gearbox out of a mate's Puma 2.4 110 to replace the clutch. Looking at the starter motor it is not entirely clear whether it needs to come out for the gearbox to be removed, is there anyone who has done this job who can confirm whether the starter needs to come out? I'll have a search through the rave manual after dinner tonight but hoping for some first-hand info.
    Pete
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  2. 22nd June 2016, 07:13 PM #2
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    Stays put☺

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  3. 22nd June 2016, 09:00 PM #3
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    Thanks Justin, seemed so from the manual, nice to have the confirmation. The starter looks like a pig to get out.
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  4. 23rd June 2016, 05:48 AM #4
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    They aren't fun to remove..😕 . The transit van starters come with a disclaimer in the box that says if the starter fails due to ingress of excessive dust and filings from the slow death of the dual mass flywheel then warranty is voided...😕

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  5. 23rd June 2016, 05:51 AM #5
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    But don't worry it doesn't apply to landies though thank goodness as they have a solid flywheel. Maybe there may have been less clutch issues had they had a dual mass one however I'd prefer the solid option.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  6. 24th June 2016, 11:41 AM #6
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    I had a chuckle at "has anyone done this job" ......

    I'm guessing I and other LR repairers such as JC have done more clutches on the Defender TDCi than any other model now, thankfully its the easiest clutch to do on a Land Rover ever!

    No starter to remove, no centre floor to remove, no viscous fan to remove, no coolant pipe brackets to get stuck between gearbox and engine, no lifetime of oil leaks, clutch easy to bleed, the only awkward part is the 4 bolts on the exhaust manifold and the heat shield bolts.

    I've been using the AP brand of clutch kit, which I had thought was actually "AP Borg & Beck" but just did one yesterday that had the clutch replaced only 20,000kms (not by me) ago and it was rattling again, when I stripped it, the driven plate springs had all fallen out and it was marked "Borg & Beck" yet the AP branded ones I've not had come back and seem better made. the flywheel also had uneven wear on it, which can be machined nice again.

    Regards
    Daz
    Regards
    Daz

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