Thread: 35s on a puma 90

Honestly i think a puma with a decent remap would still drive reasonably well on 35s - ive ran bigger on a tired old 3.5 v8 before on stock diff ratios. I run 33s on my 130 with stock gearing and it drives fine, ive driven like this with the stock tune and again it was fine, the small increase to 35s wouldnt be that noticable i wouldn't think, perhaps i will try my 37s on the puma sometime.

As for whats required to fit, you will definetly need after market rims with a decent offset i.e 0 offset to -25 on an 8in wide rim - you might need to trim a few things here and there if you up for that but lift isn't going to be the magic thing you need to fit bigger tyres, as someone else has already mentioned lift will only increase your static ride height, you have to remember these bigger tyres will need clearance to move up and down, not just tuck under flex, most people take the wheel tuck into account when fitting bigger tyres but dont really think about what happens if you hit a something hard with both wheels at the same time and the axle travels up evenly rather then tucking a single side - ive done some panel damage like this on 37s even after trimming - also look at tuck at full lock in the front, I had some issues reversing at full lock and the tyres grabing and folding up the front of the inner guard.

Also another thing to consider is not all 35s are actually 35s.... ive seen 35s that were only a tad larger then my MTZ 33s then again i have seen 35s that were closer in size to my 37s.

Quoting a lift is a bit misleading if you are quoting the manufacturer's marketing. These are LR specs bump stop clearances.

90 Model
F 84 ? 15 mm
R 97 ? 15 mm

110 Model
F 72 ? 15 mm
R 130 ? 15 mm

130 Model
F 97 ? 15 mm
R 152 ? 15 mm

As can be seen a D130 Front is about 1 inch on a D110 and half an inch on a D90. If the manufacturer says 2" and it's referenced off a D110 ride height you might be shorting yourself of actual lift. I appreciate that the D90 uses a different coil to the D110 and D130 but manufacturers are lazy and are not likely to quote the actual lift for the various models.

I had an actual 1.5" lift in the front of a Puma D130 and my 35's rubbed the inner guards, stripping the plastic on the leading edge behind the lights. Was worse in reverse with a wheel tucked up. The Puma inner guards are shaped different to the older 300tdi/TD5's. The Puma guards catch where the older models may not.

35's with stock gearing is doable but is down on acceleration and it was quick to drop out of the power band on hills. It doesn't take much to go from cruising with the traffic to slotting in behind a semi trailer lugging up a long hill.

I went to 4.11's and it reduced the gearing by 8% on 35's. Fantastic for rock crawling, a drag in start stop traffic as first is too low to hang in that gear as you shuffle along in traffic. Other road users see it as an opportunity to change lanes in front of you at each shunt of the traffic.

The diff ratio options for Puma gearing makes 35's fall into a compromised middle ground. Factory gearing is marginally too tall, 4.11's is marginally too short.

not much change from $4k for a front e-locker, ashcroft CV's, axles and flanges drive in drive out. the rear e-locker with axles & flanges is about $3000/$3,200) drive in drive out. C&W, as Tombie said is good for $500 an end.

Slippery slope.

Luckily there's a 3.9 to meet in the middle

I would never run a 35 without hearing changes. Way to many compromises..

Originally Posted by Tombie

Luckily there's a 3.9 to meet in the middle

I would never run a 35 without hearing changes. Way to many compromises..

Having done it, I totally agree!

Originally Posted by MLD

Quoting a lift is a bit misleading if you are quoting the manufacturer's marketing. These are LR specs bump stop clearances.

90 Model
F 84 ? 15 mm
R 97 ? 15 mm

110 Model
F 72 ? 15 mm
R 130 ? 15 mm

130 Model
F 97 ? 15 mm
R 152 ? 15 mm

As can be seen a D130 Front is about 1 inch on a D110 and half an inch on a D90. If the manufacturer says 2" and it's referenced off a D110 ride height you might be shorting yourself of actual lift. I appreciate that the D90 uses a different coil to the D110 and D130 but manufacturers are lazy and are not likely to quote the actual lift for the various models.

I had an actual 1.5" lift in the front of a Puma D130 and my 35's rubbed the inner guards, stripping the plastic on the leading edge behind the lights. Was worse in reverse with a wheel tucked up. The Puma inner guards are shaped different to the older 300tdi/TD5's. The Puma guards catch where the older models may not.

35's with stock gearing is doable but is down on acceleration and it was quick to drop out of the power band on hills. It doesn't take much to go from cruising with the traffic to slotting in behind a semi trailer lugging up a long hill.

I went to 4.11's and it reduced the gearing by 8% on 35's. Fantastic for rock crawling, a drag in start stop traffic as first is too low to hang in that gear as you shuffle along in traffic. Other road users see it as an opportunity to change lanes in front of you at each shunt of the traffic.

The diff ratio options for Puma gearing makes 35's fall into a compromised middle ground. Factory gearing is marginally too tall, 4.11's is marginally too short.

not much change from $4k for a front e-locker, ashcroft CV's, axles and flanges drive in drive out. the rear e-locker with axles & flanges is about $3000/$3,200) drive in drive out. C&W, as Tombie said is good for $500 an end.

Slippery slope.

I've been thinking 3.75s might be a nice compromise on a puma with 35's, but im yet to find them

Originally Posted by Northy

I've been thinking 3.75s might be a nice compromise on a puma with 35's, but im yet to find them

32 to 35 is 9%

3.54 to 3.9 is 9%

Perfect

so im going ahead with 35s in Jan next year.

So the plan is cv's, axels, wider flares (which il get two packed black to match) -25 rims and the rubber.




going with the flat dog flares. My sawtooth rims will be up for sale with the 285/75/16 km2s of which there is quite alot of rubber left on. Rims might need repainting.

Originally Posted by D90 orkney

so im going ahead with 35s in Jan next year.

So the plan is cv's, axels, wider flares (which il get two packed black to match) -25 rims and the rubber.




going with the flat dog flares. My sawtooth rims will be up for sale with the 285/75/16 km2s of which there is quite alot of rubber left on. Rims might need repainting.

Some of the puma 130 owners say with the 6sp , you don't really need ratios changed for 35in tyres(a 90 is about 1ton lighter), if so maybe just for the front diff get an Ashcroft ATB to put in when you get axles/cv's done? Its like a LSD but works well with the traction control. I have a 2002 td5 110 wagon with 35in(315/75 r16 toyo MT -25mm rims) , Atb front and Detroit rear, and find its not to bad with standard gearing, but may get 4.11 in the future when my $$$ budget allows.
The rear locker either Ashcroft, arb or electric is far more expensive so maybe save for that later, its not recommended to put a Detroit into rover axles.