Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Td5 Swivel and Wheel Bearing Advice?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    171
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Question Td5 Swivel and Wheel Bearing Advice?

    Hi Folks

    Need some advice on swivel and wheel bearings...

    I've noticed over the last couple of weeks that my 04 Td5 has started to feel a little off in the handling department, just a bit different somehow..

    So I went over it after work this evening and found that all the wheel bearings are a touch loose and the swivels in particular have a decent bit of play in them

    Thats all ok as I want to convert to oil fed hubs anyway (another question on that I'll get to in a minute) but my main query is should I replace all the bearings while I have everything apart? This is a planned long term vehicle so don't want to skimp however if I can get another x amount of kms out of them that would be great.

    Whats the average life of wheel bearings? Its got 184k on the clock now.
    And should I just tighten the swivels up or should I look at new bearings and pins?

    Obvious solution would be to disassemble first and check condition but its my daily drive now since I sold my Tdi last week

    Ok so oil fed hubs on the rear is straight forward but I realise there are a couple of different ways to do it on the front...
    Either run the whole lot on diff oil or have just the CV's and hubs sharing one shot grease, I'm thinking I prefer the later..

    Pros and cons??

    Enlighten me Aulro!

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    youve got it apart, give it a bit of a birthday, especially since you're going to look at oil conversion.

    you'll also want to look at converting the stake nuts to double nuts, while its apart get the rotors skimmed and replace the brake pads.

    the swivels will be a case of dropping a shim out or replacing the railco bush but if the lube has been looked after in the hubs the the bearing will be ok as will the pins but if theres any rust I advocate a clean up of the pins, check it for roundness and lips then replace the bearing. it wont shim up correctly if you do that so order some spare shims when you get the swivel bearing.

    Dont forget the bearings in the stub, to rotate the stub and look at doing a maxi flange conversion along with county CV's while you have it that far down IF theres any spline wear on the drive flange or the axle.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Greatest city in Australia, Darwin!
    Posts
    483
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Can't really Top blknights advice but I will say I'm doing exactly the same as you are planning now except staying with grease.

    If you're going to strip it that far do the whole job IMO. Bearings, seals, etc.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    171
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the replies I must say I definitely agree with you on doing the whole job, was hoping I might get away with it as things are a bit tight cash wise atm but like I said its a long term plan so will be good knowing its all new and lovely for a good while to come

    The rotors and pads had to be replaced for the roadworthy when I bought it so they will be fine with only 20k on them..

    Whats involved with converting to the double nut hub locking system? Ive not actually seen the newer system in person to be honest but does sound like its worth changing. What will I need?

    Per corner:

    2x hub nuts
    1x lock washer
    1x special washer (should already have one?)


    Ok just so I don't muck up and miss anything heres my shopping list!


    For the rear:

    4x wheel bearings
    2x outer hub seals (RTC 3511)
    4x hub nuts
    2x lock washers
    No axle seals for oil fed conversion

    For the front:

    4x wheel bearings
    2x outer hub seals
    4x hub nuts
    2x lock washers
    2x stub axle bearings
    4x swivel bearings, part numbers? May as well replace.
    2x swivel ball seals
    2x inner axle seals
    2x railco bushes??
    ?x spare shims
    No intermediate axle seals, going to run CVs and bearings as one. Do
    yon use one shot grease with this setup or an oil of some type?

    Anything else? Brain isn't in gear right now, bloody flu


    Yes there is some wear on the axle splines, Ive got just a cheap set of HD flanges on to help that and to get by for a while but do want to look at getting a full set of maybe Ashcrofts or Maxi half shafts and CVs, no pennies for those now though they will have to wait!

    Whats the difference with the County CVs Blkinght?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    ok, to do it in stages.

    get the wheel bearings done and rotate the stub axle. When thats done the next bit can be done without disturbing them again.

    for now pull shims out from under the top swivel pin, that will tighten up the ball joint play.

    when you get all the bits sorted out for the CV replacement and swivel pin rebearing.


    your parts list looks about right for each job.

    The CV's for a county are better because they were from an era when things were built up to a standard as opposed to down to a cost.

    Essentially County CV's are the same as maxi CV's

    If you're doing the oil fed conversion then you dont need the gease in the CV but I do recommend pre lubing during assembly. I usually use a high moly grease but a single tube of one shot will do both CV's for prelube purposes.

    Pack the wheel bearings with a high quality grease and its worth drilling a small hole in the stub axle between the bearing seats to promote oil flow. I also drill and tap the flange so a drain fill plug combo can be screwed in to allow top up, checking and draining of the bearing oil.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    107
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'm thinking about doing this myself on a 2003 so very timely thread.
    Where is the best place to source county cv's ?
    And how to tell which is the best brand ?
    Any idea on a rough price ?
    Thanks in advance


    Sent from my SM-T310 using AULRO mobile app

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Id usually just ring MR automotive.

    Im not sure if roverlord lists the heavy duty replacement stuff but your stock bearings, nuts, washers shims and seal you could easily grab from him.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    14,276
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'd be surprised if the bearings needed changing.......

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    171
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Right so with the newly risen possibility of heading up to western NSW for a while to work I've decided to do a full rebuild on the front hubs including Ashcroft CV's and halfshafts and a full rebuild of the rear hubs minus the halfshafts, they are an easy job later once I've got the money.
    Yes its more cash then I should/wanted to throw at the rig just now but I hate the thought of having to strip the fronts down again in a few thousand for the axle replacements, and it will be great knowing its all been done!

    Blknight, I'm a little confused sorry! If I'm going to oil fed bearings do I still grease them first? Pre lubing is a must I realise but does it matter mixing the two? Ive just always been under the impression its one or the other only but maybe thats not the case..

    Also Ive been doing some more research and Ive heard mention of needing a different "spacer" and "snap ring" for the larger diameter of the 23 spline halfshafts? To prevent the halfshafts "floating"?

    Or have I got my wires crossed?!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    14,276
    Total Downloaded
    0
    For oil lubed I have always greased the bearings as normal......

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!