Thread: 300tdi Defender - Oil pouring out of front sump wading plug

IMO it's absolutely essential to manually rotate the crank at least 2 full turns and then recheck timing after doing any belt/chain timing job. Not as critical with a fully gear driven drivetrain as you're not dealing with tensioners etc.
It's quite easy to have a belt slightly out of alignment which will drop tension when it runs - potentially jumping a tooth etc.
I've had some setups that we're sort of half a tooth out and the only way to get correct timing was to set them up what seemed like a tooth advanced. Once it was all loaded up after rotating everything was correct. Just doing it without rotating by hand after would have resulted in it being a tooth retarded.
Hopefully you haven't messed it up completely and bent pushrods or damaged rockers. I'd be pulling the rocker cover at this point to check in case you need to order parts. Good thing with a 300tdi you're unlikely to damage valves/pistons.

Good luck

Steve

Today my timings pins arrived and I was able to get the timing cover off after work before the rain came.
What greeted me explains the problem, I would say.

With the crack woodruff at 12, the camshaft mark is at roughly 2 o clock, where as the mark on the casting means it it meant to be at 7ish. So very far out...
The injector is also out and the pin opening is at 5ish, with it meant to be at 11 as I understand it.

Tomorrow I will find the correct notch for the flywheel pin and check the teeth as workingonit suggested. I will also take the rocker cover off, but I would hope as it never started it shouldn't have damaged any parts - but will check nonetheless.

Now just do much sure I don't make any more mess of this;
To correct the camshaft and injector pump, do I simply take the timing belt off and rotate the gears independently until the mark lines with the casing arrow and the injector pump pin fits the pump lock?

Thanks again fellas, I appreciate all the help and putting up with me. I still believe it's better to stuff something up a couple of times but learn how to do it yourself for life.

Personally, I'd pull the rocker shaft and rockers off next, and remove the pushrods. Makes it easier to turn the cam, and means you're not going to be pushing valves into pistons as you try and turn the cam etc.
Since the timing was that far out and you've cranked it on the starter I think you definitely need to check the pushrods, so may as well just pull the lot now and start from scratch.

Steve

The timing marks line up every second revolution of the crank. Sounds like you are simply on the off cycle.

From here i would do as others have suggested, remove and inspect the pushrods, set the cam timing with the pushrods out and reassemble.

The fact it didnt start does not mean pistons did not meet valvess, they just did so more slowly.

Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

Okay guys, I've made some progress as I was keen to correct my mistakes.
I took off the rocker cover, and I seem to have gotten away without damaging anything. All push rods are visually straight and no cracks on the rockers.
Don't think I'm lucky though, I was greeted with a huge amount of milky oil cover and rockers pics.

I should explain that the head was warped and recently replaced by mechanics. It's only been 100 km since the job, so I hope this is left over and will clear up. Either way, this post is about the timing so I'll focus on getting the engine running.

I will be as detailed as I can, so you fellas can pick up if Ive done something else wrong before I crank it with the starter again.

First, I tried to get another rotation in as per SSmiths advice, but couldn't get any further with my small bar and was worried I was forcing the cylinders into the valves.

I removed the camshaft and then the timing belt. Turning the crank was very hard the first rotation, but I turned it 3 rotations and it feels more normal now, but I should note I only have a 2 foot 1/2 inch breaker bar.
The flywheel pin is fully screwed into the smaller of the notches as seen here.

I then rotated the cam gear on its own by hand clockwise until it met the casting mark. I rotated the injector pump also on its own and lined up the locking hole with the camera on my phone and the pin is in there snug.
As seen here.

Am I correct in saying that as of that picture, everything is reset and back in the correct place for the belt to be put on?

Thanks again.

You should be good to go.
Make sure the pump pulley is fully
Clockwise as you offer up the belt.
It will rotate anticlock as you tension the belt.

So it started, huzzah.
When putting on the belt I undid the 3 smaller bolts on the pump so the pulley can rotate to take the slack, as per LR toolbox's video suggestion.
I torqued it using a click wrench, not ideal I know, but I didn't feel it worth buying another expensive tool for.

I rotated the crank twice, the cam was half a tooth out so I did it again - not taking any chances this time.
Second time was just right, pump pin slid easily all the way in.

Doing the valve clearances took a long time and at the start there was a loud metallic sound. Not sure what it was but couldn't find any damage.
I did however find number 7 cam follower was a bit bent out of shape, although the push rod seems to still fit (pic).
Number 1 adjuster thread was also a bit warn and couldn't be tightened properly... I imagine it's hard to track down a single replacement.

Anyhow, with the timing cover and fan belt off I nervously turned the key and it started after a little hick up. I only ran it for 10 seconds but sounds okay... A little hard to listen for an off noise in such a loud engine bay, but I think it's been saved.
Tomorrow I'll finish putting it together and see if the oil leak has been stopped that started this ever expanding problem.

Thanks for the help fellas - a shout out to workingonit.

Hi guys.
It's completely back together now. First start was a bit rough, it stalled after 5 seconds.
Running okay now, but I'm a little worried about a faint metalic tapping sound, mainly that the valves are hitting.

I reordered a video - a little hard to hear the noise though.
https://vid.me/GOYx

Can anyone pick up on a bad sound, or am I just over thinking what's a bloody noisy engine?
Thanks

Edit:
Tried to drive it up our long steep driveway and it was really struggling to keep revs and tonnes of black smoke pouring out.
Timing related, or perhaps more to do with the head history (mechanics months ago sent it back to us with creamy oil blaming a not-tested cracked block).