Thread: DB Isolators?

I'm not sure how different they all are, but they all seem to do the trick.

I just use a Redarc that connects the battery when the engine is running (and charging) and disconnects when the engine is stopped (not charging). At the end of the day I'm not sure what more could be asked of it.

That said, a lot on here like the Traxide one and apparently that is the go for the more modern charging systems for some reason.

Thanks for this Slunnie,

One thing that has me wondering though..... if they are so similar, why aren't the Jaycar DBI's mentioned on here more often? Is there something legitimately wrong with something that cheap?

If it anything from TD5 on then you will be best with a DC/DC charger as they have a smart alternator and therefore they will alter the voltage output as they see fit.

Its really worth reading Drivesafe's posts on the DC-DC chargers. He manufactures the Traxide equipment and he is very switched on with all of this - I think the Traxide DBS is the only unit approved for modern type (ieD3/4, RRS etc) LandRovers. Hopefully I don't put words into his mouth, but I thought that he recommended not to run them as they increase charging time.

Hi ThorneGator, what is your intended use for a dual battery system?

This will be more important as to what DBS can do for you.

Originally Posted by mrs

If it anything from TD5 on then you will be best with a DC/DC charger as they have a smart alternator and therefore they will alter the voltage output as they see fit.

Hi mrs, and there is no advantage to fitting DC/DC devices to most new vehicles, not just Land Rovers.

But in the case of a D3 or D4, as Slunnie correctly pointed out, you will need to do a hell of a lot more driving time to give a DC/DC device enough time to recharge batteries as compered to what your alternator can do by itself.

A perfect example is if you fitted a 55Ah Optima Yellowtop under the bonnet of a D4.

If the battery was flat, your would need to drive for around 3 hours for a 20 amp DC/DC device to get the battery up over 95%, and nearly 2 hours for a 40 amp DC/DC device to do the same.

Whereas, just charging via one of my isolators and you will have the same battery over 95% SoC in under an hour.

The major advantage to using a D4 alternator as the primary charge device is that it runs at 14.7v and has at least 100 amps available for charging the Optima.

I think Traxide units allow some of the starting battery to be drawn in addition to the second battery while saving plenty for starting. Have a look at the Traxide website for details.

Sent from my A1601 using AULRO mobile app

A lot of new vehicles do not put out a constant 14 plus volts if they don't think they need it so unless you can step it up then batteries such as AGM will not reach full charge. I have had this issue in my TD5 disco