Hiyas.
Went to shop, SVX not locked, 5mins, return, start...........nup! All the lights are on, but nobody's home. Wouldn't crank! second time in less than 12 months. Changed fob battery , still not go. RACQ truck and SVX paraded through the streets :0(
SVX currently sitting in street with Module disconnected and powerless, hoping it will drain out overnight and lose any recollections. Will reconnct in morning and see what happens.
I don't know how many others out there have been whacked by the immobiliser module, but is not good. The "what ifs" go on and on; up in the Cape, middle of Great Victoria .......... , stuck on Anne Bedell..........$3000+ pick up from Simpson.
Did write to JLRA after last failure. Not a whimper!
We need a bypass for Deffie's immobiliser system!
Has someone developed/found one?
Otherwise, how do we get JLRA to give us one??? Completely bypass the immobiliser module permanently!
Cheers all
RF
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						SubscriberNeil
(Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
Nulla tenaci invia est via
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						Have you tried this?
Immobiliser Removal TD4 Puma 2.4 – BAS Remaps, Powering the Landrover tuning world!
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						SubscriberAs a followup to my EKA suggestion/question, if I am not mistaken one of the featured of the Nanocom Evo is ability to selectively turn off immobiliser. I bought one (Nanocom Evo) for this purpose since LR were taking so long to get me my EKA code....
Unfortunately the Nanocom Evo never worked on my vehicle, not even once. There is apparently some assembly plants outside of the UK don't program the vehicle VIN properly into the ECUs and this causes the Nanocom to fail to connect. (So I have one Nanocom Evo - surplus to requirements)
Neil
(Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
Nulla tenaci invia est via
did forget to add.
Disconnected Immobiliser left overnight. Reconnected next morning. Fired up straight away! Took it a while to recognise second key fob and lock unlock with it.
Will also add, unless you are in the habit of carrying the appropriate 6 point screwdriver, I would recommend removing those screws from the RH speaker and replacing them with Philips, for Leatherman or similar or just a Philips Screwdriver.
Cheers
RF
Rick,
I have had instances of both my previous 2007 Defender and my 2013 Defender which would not start. A number of times it has been in service stations and once in a country town. It was actually the country town incident which made me feel that in my case the failure to start is relater to RF (radio frequency) interference. I will explain why.
One instance with my 2013 Defender purchased with 8000km on it was at a service station when I went to fill it the first time driving back from Sydney to Melbourne. Stopped, filled up, turned the key and the Defender tried to start but didn't. Turned the key again and even less action from the starter. Third time nothing at all. I fiddled around for about 5 minutes looking for problems, found nothing then tried again and it started reluctantly enough to move it from the bowser. Switched it off again and it would not restart again. A few attempts and it started. Moved it further away and started again and did not have any further problems for 10,000km.
At a country town at night I stopped the vehicle, and then tried to lock it and couldn't. Fiddled around and it eventually locked. Then I tried opening it and it would not unlock. I was not impressed at this stage. At this point I noticed a great big communications tower just out of site hidden by trees but close by. At this point I thought that maybe interference is the problem. I then held the key fob right next to the A pillar near the immobiliser aerial and hey presto, everything worked again. If I moved the fob away from the pillar, I could not open or close the vehicle. So I concluded interference was the problem. After opening the vehicle again, I started the vehicle, moved it away from the tower and had no further problems.
I was up in Cairns just recently and noticed the immobiliser light blink once just as I drove into another fuel station. I immediately thought that It might not start once stopped. I filled up, tried to restart and the Defender would not start - nothing. It tried it again and it did start. I went back to the service station a few times and it started each time. So around 3timesin 40,000km the vehicle has not started first turn.
I have noticed that occasionally when driving, the immobiliser light blinks. Often it is in the same area of a particular road and only ever seems to happen in the city/built up areas and not on the open road. So in my case, I feel there is something actually interfering with the signal to/from the immobiliser. The fact that others have experienced problems in service stations tends to indicate an interference issue although it could be just a random event when stopping.
If it does it again I will place the key fob next to the immobiliser module and see it starts. Like you, I don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere.
It would be interesting to see if moving your vehicle away from an area where it failed to start would get it going or by holding the key fob next to the immobiliser module aerial would get it started although maybe you have already tried this.
I have emergency key access code which I requested from Land Rover just in case and had no problem getting it. I'll have to try it one day to see if it works!
Good luck with it.
Regards,
4wheeler
Thanks for that info. My D2 used to do exactly as you describe. Culprit is/was RF, mainly from Chemists back to base alarms even when disarmed. got to the point at my local shopping centre where as soon as I stopped I would lock the car. If the lock failed I would still have time to restart and move before the D2's immobiliser armed. So, I've had lots of experience with the sort of problem you have described. Unfortunately not that easy.
With my SVX, it wouldn't start, period. Even after returning home on the back of a truck. (I tell everyone it was the black JEEP around the corner) First event took me 4 days of on and off trouble shooting with and without Bearmach to work out what was going on. Even then it was by accident. I'd left the module unplugged from previous day and was getting him ready to go on back of truck to Dealer, and was putting everything back the way it was. Soon as I plugged the the module back in security LED came back on, and everything worked!
The indicator that the module has "gone away" is the security LED in the bottom of the tacho is dead. Interestingly this event is just over 12 months from last event.
Cheers
Rick F
hi guys
frightening stuff this, for me it would be nice to have a photo of the module so i know what it is and where it is
thanks
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