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Thread: Unbolting second row seats in 110

  1. #1
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    Unbolting second row seats in 110

    Time to replace the shredded rubber matting. So will need to take the row out as rubber runs from the loadspace and under the seat mounting (2013 Puma).

    Is it as simple as just unbolt the large obvious torx head bolts and lift out, or is there a pitfall to trap the unwary (sounds of nuts on the other side dropping into impossible places......)?

    Cheers

    Simon

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    Worked it out, not that hard in the end, just fold the seats forward and unbolt the bracket from the floor.

    Now I know where the kids sweets end up when they drop them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Worked it out, not that hard in the end, just fold the seats forward and unbolt the bracket from the floor.

    Now I know where the kids sweets end up when they drop them.
    Dyna mat it under the rubber mate

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    I did think about that, but don't find the noise level an issue so decided to wait for now. I went for 5mm rubber, so a bit thicker than the original. Also did the 2nd row floor. Do you need to modify the retaining clamps to fit the extra thickness of the dynamat?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    I did think about that, but don't find the noise level an issue so decided to wait for now. I went for 5mm rubber, so a bit thicker than the original. Also did the 2nd row floor. Do you need to modify the retaining clamps to fit the extra thickness of the dynamat?
    Nope, the Defenders 'flexible' specifications cope with a layer of Dynamat no worries at all.
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  6. #6
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    Can i ask how many bolts and if its possible to take the seats out or put them in quickly?
    I have been toying with the idea of upgrading my TD5 110 and its something i do often. I use drilled bolts with pins instead of nuts and can remove the seats in about 30 seconds.

  7. #7
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    TIMAX

    The PO of my 130 installed 110 rear seats so they fold down

    To remove take your trusty hitachi impact driver with a torx bit - buzz out a few bolts for the seat and lift out, nuts are captive and its all too easy.
    May not be 30 seconds but wouldnt be much more than that.
    The seats are pretty heavy from memory 45kg for the double and 25kg for the single when I weighed them for shizzle

    Lotsomucho space with the seats removed

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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    Quote Originally Posted by timax View Post
    ...I use drilled bolts with pins instead of nuts and can remove the seats in about 30 seconds.....
    I was toying with idea, but worries about anyone actually sitting them and them coming adrift.
    Are you able to show me the types of pins you used?
    Is this safe?

    Thanks
    2015 Defender 110

  9. #9
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    6 small torx screws gets the plastic cover off the base. Then 6 large torx bolts to take the base off the floor. Seat needs to be litter forward to do this

    There are also front fixing points where the seats hinge forward. I didn't have to undo these as the mat is cut around them. Looks like 4 more large torx bolts and then nuts on 4 more bolts to get everything out.

    The first bit would take no more than 5 mins.

    Another thing I learnt, a cuppa chup stick chewed flat at one end is great for running into corners and joins to get dirt out. The kids had dropped one amongst the other mess.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlz View Post
    I was toying with idea, but worries about anyone actually sitting them and them coming adrift.
    Are you able to show me the types of pins you used?
    Is this safe?

    Thanks
    I use pins like these Quick Release Racing Shock Pins : Shock Pins : Quick Release Pins : Racing Quick Release Shock Pins

    I just drilled the standard bolt and use a washer between the pin and the mount. The weight is taken on the bolt not the pin. Works well.
    I take mine out to fit a bed for weekends away.

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