Keenly watching this as the corner of mine also needs some TLC as well.... I'm planning of sheeting it in some Checker plate but the ally panel seems that it will might need some shrinking 1st....
I put a bit of a dent in my 2013 110 last weekend. Just wondering what work might be involved in replacing the panel / vertical capping so I can have a sensible conversation getting quotes from the panel shop.
Any recommendactions for a shop in / near the Eastern Suburbs of Sydney that knows Land Rivers gratefully appreciated.
Corner bumpers will be fitted as soon as the repair is completed!!
Cheers
Simon
Keenly watching this as the corner of mine also needs some TLC as well.... I'm planning of sheeting it in some Checker plate but the ally panel seems that it will might need some shrinking 1st....
Forget about replacing the panel; much easier to replace the tub, and you don't want to hear a quote for that. The dents will have to be straightened as best they can and then filled. Replacing the capping is simple though - it's a matter of removing the lights then drilling out the rivets, then the reverse process with the new one. About 30mins work.
Personally I would straighten out the panel as best I could, have it painted (without bog) and replace the capping.
I did that to a 2a many years ago. Had it beaten and bogged up and it looked fine. Depends how much of a purist you are I suppose.
Thanks for the replies.
Hadnt thought about some checker plate.
I'm not that much of a purist, there is a small ding in the bonnet that I have kept as it is a memory of a good trip and not that noticeable. This one however is a memory I would rather forget, had already done the hard stuff (Monkey Gum for those familiar in NSW) and just dropped into a hole on the easy section out.
My insurance co has confirmed I am covered so if I go full fix my personal cost is the excess (and then whatever extra premium they bleed me for in the future)
Dervish, forgive my ignorance, what do you mean by replace the tub?
The tub is the whole of the rear of the bodywork under the sliding window panels. It is all spot welded together such that no panel beater would attempt to separate parts of it to replace. Given that is the case, your options are to replace the whole tub - which requires mass disassembly of your Defer - or repair in situ.
Ah, I understand now, sounds rather extreme, even for an insurance claim
Must admit I'm now seriously thinking whether pulling it as flat as possible and then putting checkerplate on it would be the best option, perhaps cheaper than my excess too.
The vertical capping goes up under the top capping, is it welded / riveted under there or should it just slide down and out once all the visible rivets are drilled out?
Thanks Dervish.
If I go the checkerplate route I will try to post up some pics as we go.
Any other tips would be gratefully welcomed, I thought I would be working on my 110 from time to time, but didn't expect it to be panel beating......
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