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Thread: Money no problem - best preventative maintenance advice TD5 Defender

  1. #1
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    Money no problem - best preventative maintenance advice TD5 Defender

    Well, maybe not quite 'money no problem'. This is my first post other than intro a couple of months ago, because this forum is just bloody brilliant and I've found heaps just by searching.

    This is only my second Landy (I had a S1 15 years ago that I should have kept!). I've now got a 2000 TD5 and it's in pretty good condition (I think). Engine wise, it has remapped ECU (not sure which one - it was done in Brisbane though), straight through exhaust, EGR removal. It has EGT gauge, and engine temp Watchdog. It drives really nicely and the best all-round one that I test drove over past 6 months when I was looking for them.

    Problem is it's done 250000k's. I have heard of one that is over the 1 million k's, with not much done to it, but I'm sure that's rare? Anyway, I plan on keeping this forever, so what should I be doing now? The car was used to tow camper trailer, but history is limited other than very regular servicing (oil changes every 5000k's etc), injector harness replaced, and the exhaust manifold has been done. I don't know if the head has been off (is there anyway of telling?). There is about 2mm of play on the turbo front shaft, but the vanes are not hitting the walls, but should I replace this? I don't thrash it and don't intend to, but I will be towing a 650kg boat regularly. It sits quite comfortably at 100k/h and that's all I want. I have ordered a new inter-cooler from Allisport to help a little with EGT when towing and because it's a better unit I believe. There's no noises from running gear, and there are signs that the gearbox and transfer case have been out at some stage. It has an aftermarket sump on the TC that looks bigger than the standard and has cooling fins. Engine oil stays clean, and basically no oil leaks other than power steering, which is a little noisy when parking etc. but nothing too bad.

    So I guess my question is, what would you guys do to get it to the most reliable state given it's age etc? I'm happy to spend some dollars on it as I got it for a good price, but more importantly, I plan on doing some big trips with it (please don't tell me I should have bought a Landcruiser). Also, I have no idea about who to get to work on it for the major stuff. I'm pretty handy and can do servicing, suspension, electrical work etc, but some engine things I wouldn't tackle. Any help with that would be much appreciated too.

    Many thanks for any help,
    Clip.

  2. #2
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    Just some basic advice- keeping in mind I'm not a TD5 owner...
    Keep on top of the servicing- quality fluids, regular servicing
    Go over the car regularly for anything that's worn or in need of replacing and replace it (don't hold off 'just a little bit longer')
    At those kilometers, might be worth some of the less common maintenance items- cooling system, suspension bushes and all the other things that aren't on the regular service intervals.

    As for the engine, maybe seek advice from a pro on what he/she sees broken on vehicles of your vintage.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, good advice. I have done all radiator and coolant hoses, plus replaced intercooler hoses with silicone ones. But haven't done brake fluid or checked bushes. It does have air bags on the rear that I'm thinking of taking out. I'm not planning on carrying any big weights and It rides pretty hard even with only 5 psi in them. Is this a good idea?

  4. #4
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    Money no problem? Fine, give it to me and buy a Puma
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    However, you are unlikely to take my first advice, so: Has the oil pump bolt been done? If you don't know, then do it, and do it soon. It can be catastrophic. Many threads here about it. (Edit: covered by OP) I would research the threads about the injector O rings. Edit: Plan for the injector harness to be a regular service item, it costs so little.

    This stuff is all easy, but the result of neglect can be very costly indeed.

    The finned sump on the TC is a definite bonus. Oh, 250,000 is nothing, provided you do the simple stuff. I cannot stress enough about the oil pump bolt. It takes about one and a half hours, costs you a few bucks in the sump gasket and the bolt ( check out Mario, Roverlord on this forum, for the price ), and can save you a complete engine failure. If it wasn't for this forum, I wouldn't know that either.

    Oh, yes. Get a Nanocom, or similar ( people have preferences ). It'll become your best friend.

    Enjoy. Remember, this forum likes pix.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    If you are relatively serious with the no budget comments this is what I would do.

    Pull the head and replace it with an AMC head using steel dowels when its reinstalled
    Remove the oil cooler at the same time and check thoroughly replace if necessary replace radiator as a matter of course. (I used Allisport 50mm)
    Replace Viscous fan if it has any play in it
    Remove sump and locktite oil pump bolt
    Replace water pump check the drive dogs on the power steering pump when doing this
    Replace all hoses and belts
    Replace clutch and DMF I have used standard even tuned with VNT and it seems to survive ok
    Do all wheel and swivel housing bearings
    Replace 5th gear support bearings and oil pump if box shows other unusual behavior replace it with an updated Ashcroft box with a v8 5th gear
    Reco transfer box and fit Ashcroft ATB
    Fit Ashcroft ATB in front diff
    Upgrade axles to Maxi Drive
    If you have ABS thoroughly check out the system option B is not the solution to every problem and can be dangerous on a defender if not done very carefully
    Buy yourself some spare ABS sensors from the UK and carry them
    Buy yourself a spare ECU / ABS ECU/ AS10 Security ECU and carry along with a Nanocom
    Carry a spare Crank Positioning Sensor thoroughly check out the wiring before going too far afield
    While the gearbox is out cover the wiring harness on the left hand side of the transmission tunnel hump with some protective tubing
    Carry a spare TPS
    Replace or carry spare Genuine VDO fuel pump
    Check and or replace all relays under the drivers seat specifically the fuel pump relay check the connectors are not corroded
    Change Fuel pressure regulator and reseal fuel cooler if fitted.
    Fit Koni Raid 90 Series shocks

    I did all this and much more because I lived in an isolated area for a long time
    If you are in a city dont worry about it just drive it 250000 is not that much work and you can always fix it easily

    Dont change the oil in a TD5 every 5000 ks it just a waste of money for no benefit

    That should keep you busy

  7. #7
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    Only 250K on a 17yr old car, wow! When I sold my 99 Disco 2 (TD5) in 2013 it had 430K on it.

    From my TD5 experiences,
    - Get a low level coolant alarm, if you overheat a TD5 then the problems are never ending. The temp on the dash is in the coolant water so if you split a hose, you may never know.
    you can get one from this forum shop http://https://www.davesitshop.com/e.../ess12tdv.html easy as to install.

    - OEM post turbo hoses had a habit of collapsing on the inside, can be almost impossible to troubleshoot. Your car couldn't possibly have the original hoses, worth a check, replace them with silicone hoses if they are not already.

    - as per above post, injector harness is regular maintenance item, easy enough to do. Include a new gasket for the cover, it will pay you back in the cost of oil leaks.
    - The TD5 was one of the first motors to come out with the red OAT coolant, many were changed over to gycol (green) or worse still, topped up with green. (Ask me how I know ). The hose tails over the entire cooling system will corrode with the green, I'd check these. The end result of swapping red to green would be a gunk in the oil to water cooler.

    - If it's been chipped then most likely the plastic dowels / head gasket thing has been fixed.

    -I've had a couple of dealing with British Offroad at Forrest Glen, I was happy with the service I got from them.

    - As for the defender part I'd give the chassis a good look at for rust and get it treated if it has not already been treated.

    - Check around the windscreen and tropical windows for corrosion as well.

    Cheers Glen.

  8. #8
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    best preventative thing you can do is a put a 4bd1 in it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by discoRRc View Post
    best preventative thing you can do is a put a 4bd1 in it
    Hmm, I did look a couple of Perenties but they were just too slow in standard form. But maybe with 5 speed, adding a turbo, they'd be a good bit of kit? If the TD5 explodes, it may be an option though. Is it a hard conversion? Are they available though?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    If you are relatively serious with the no budget comments this is what I would do.

    Pull the head and replace it with an AMC head using steel dowels when its reinstalled
    Remove the oil cooler at the same time and check thoroughly replace if necessary replace radiator as a matter of course. (I used Allisport 50mm)
    Replace Viscous fan if it has any play in it
    Remove sump and locktite oil pump bolt
    Replace water pump check the drive dogs on the power steering pump when doing this
    Replace all hoses and belts
    Replace clutch and DMF I have used standard even tuned with VNT and it seems to survive ok
    Do all wheel and swivel housing bearings
    Replace 5th gear support bearings and oil pump if box shows other unusual behavior replace it with an updated Ashcroft box with a v8 5th gear
    Reco transfer box and fit Ashcroft ATB
    Fit Ashcroft ATB in front diff
    Upgrade axles to Maxi Drive
    If you have ABS thoroughly check out the system option B is not the solution to every problem and can be dangerous on a defender if not done very carefully
    Buy yourself some spare ABS sensors from the UK and carry them
    Buy yourself a spare ECU / ABS ECU/ AS10 Security ECU and carry along with a Nanocom
    Carry a spare Crank Positioning Sensor thoroughly check out the wiring before going too far afield
    While the gearbox is out cover the wiring harness on the left hand side of the transmission tunnel hump with some protective tubing
    Carry a spare TPS
    Replace or carry spare Genuine VDO fuel pump
    Check and or replace all relays under the drivers seat specifically the fuel pump relay check the connectors are not corroded
    Change Fuel pressure regulator and reseal fuel cooler if fitted.
    Fit Koni Raid 90 Series shocks

    I did all this and much more because I lived in an isolated area for a long time
    If you are in a city dont worry about it just drive it 250000 is not that much work and you can always fix it easily

    Dont change the oil in a TD5 every 5000 ks it just a waste of money for no benefit

    That should keep you busy
    Of course, if money is TRULY no object, buy a D4.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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