Thread: Re-fitting Defender front radius arms. Help!

I was concerned that I may over-tighten the panhard rod nut/bolt if i kept going. Is this possible or should I just keep tightening until it wont move or I cant move it?

It should be VERY tight so that the inner sleeve will not move at all and the bush take up the movement in shear.
If the inner sleeve is worn then this may mean the arms of the bracket will be bent inwards and the rod will be difficult to remove when the time comes so check out the clearance. Best to then fit new bushes and new bolts and nuts.
Obviously it should be tightened with the vehicle on it wheels and in normal driving height.

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

It should be VERY tight so that the inner sleeve will not move at all and the bush take up the movement in shear.
If the inner sleeve is worn then this may mean the arms of the bracket will be bent inwards and the rod will be difficult to remove when the time comes so check out the clearance. Best to then fit new bushes and new bolts and nuts.
Obviously it should be tightened with the vehicle on it wheels and in normal driving height.

Regards Philip A

Thanks Philip

They are new bushes, so i guess i need to to tighten more.

Cheers Simon

I finally had some time on the weekend to get under the Tdi300 with the wheels on the ground and tighten everything best i could with the limited clearance/leverage. There was some more scope for tightening the panhard rod on the drivers side. This has certainly made a difference and while there is a barley discernible wobble still around 85-90 you wouldn't notice it unless you were looking for it. I will try and get it on a hoist where there will be more leverage/clearance at a local mechanic and get things even tighter if I get a chance.

As part of my ongoing 'maintenance' and while I had a willing assistant for a change (and after two disastrous attempts with one man bleed kits) I bleed the brakes after having recently replaced the rear rotors and pads. There was a lot of crud in the system, but the pedal pressure was better but still not brilliant. By comparison my Td5 pedal is rock solid and the Tdi300 is still a little spongy.

IMG_2025.jpg

Sorry about the orientation.. (wasted too much time trying to rotate it through 90)

There are no leaks from anywhere in the system that i can see and the fluid level has never moved since i bought it, but how do i get the pedal pressure more like the Td5? It was actually better before the new rotors/pads went on. Do I need to bleed the entire system again? I followed the workshop manual which said to do the left front first, then right front before left rear and right rear.

Any thoughts?

I hope you have lots more fluid from the brakes than that.

You should do a full flush if your fluid looks like that so that you get nice clear green fluid.

Your Master cylinder is probably on the way out with fluid like that so that may explain the sponginess.

I am not familiar with the pedal feel of a Defender but D2 calipers are a completely different design. I can attest that a RRC classic has a less sensitive feel than a D2 although I think Defender front calipers are different.