+1 for the LTX AT2. While I don't have them I've seen them on a car with 80,000km and they still looked fantastic and they were the quietest tyres he'd ever had too. They will probably be my next tyre.
If you would like to stay with Michelin quality, can recommend the LTX AT2 in 235/85R16 which is almost identical to 7.50x16.
My first set of LTX AT2's on the Defender were repplaced at 100,000km and were still in a roadworthy state. During that 100K thay had done Cape York, The Tanami, The Gulf and the Kimberley as well as outback NSW. At least 20,000km were on unmade surfaces. They're a quiet tire, with a strong sidewall and good traction. The only damage I suffered with the tyres was a flat from a nail on that was on a piece of wood as I drove through roadworks in the Pilbara, which was repaired with a tyre plug. And a ripped sidewall, when a hoon towing a trailer was rushing toward me on the Gibb River Road, and I had to detour into the grader piled rocks on the side of the road to avoid a crash.
At around $300 per tyre they're not the cheapest (or the most expensive), but I feel they give a good economical return for the price.
+1 for the LTX AT2. While I don't have them I've seen them on a car with 80,000km and they still looked fantastic and they were the quietest tyres he'd ever had too. They will probably be my next tyre.
Cheers
Niels
Snowy - 1998 300tdi Defender 110
Past:
The Toad - 1992 200Tdi Defender 110
As mentioned... a 235/85R16 is the equivalent to the ol 7.50 x 16
BUT
The 130 standard steel wheels are a 16 x 6 (i think or 6.5) so you cant go upto a 265/75R16 as some have suggested.
Also the 130 standard steel wheels are for a tubed tyre.
Apparently wheels for tubeless have a additional lip to assist in sealing/keeping tyre on wheel.
BUT would like to know of anyone running tubeless tyres on their 130 steel wheel for tubed, as I have a customer with the same issue.
Regards
Daz
Does anyone know the side wall ply rating of the LTX AT2? They sound great.
Ive always run Bridgestone 661's 235/85R16 which are similarly tough, 80K+ and super tough sidewalls 10 ply rating
235/85R16's are similar rolling diameter but still a bit wider than 7.50R16's. I prefer 7.50R16's it they're not easy. So still looking for a true replacement for xzl's in 7.50R16.
When I was doing my research most tyres had 2 ply side walls and the LTX AT2 was 3 ply. I don't know how Radial ply compares to cross ply tyres
I used to have Custom Xtra Grip cross plies on a second set of rims for off roading. These were very chunky old school tyres (used by forestry and military). I learned that reducing tyre pressure on radials gave me way better traction in steep clay / mud terrain than the hard walled cross plies. Though the chunky grip was better at clawing out of ruts.
I've got Goodyear Wrangler TG's on my 110. They are 7.50s, tubed though. Aggressive tread but can't comment about wear because, though I've had them on for a couple years, I don't drive the defender more than a few 1000kms a year.
I currently have Michelin XZL 7.50R16C on my 130 which are up for replacement. I have tubed rims on my vehicle (ANR5593) which means whatever tyre I replace the Michelin's with have to have tubes in them. Can't afford at this stage to buy tubeless rims.
Leaning towards the TOYO M55s. Is anybody using these tyres with tubes in them or is there anybody out there running tubes inside tyres.
Have read that the trouble with using tubeless tyres with tubes is that the tyres often have a pattern on the inside of the tyre which rubs holes in the tubes & also that using tubes in tubeless tyres over heats them.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks