Thread: Ignition / Starting Problems on my 300Tdi 110.....?

It could be a lot of things but yup, Defenders do have ignition switch issues. It's a $40ish or $100ish part (pattern v Lucas) and about 1 to 2 hours work to change (my experience on a MY10 car). I'd try replacing the switch before the key barrel - the switch is at the end of the barrel.

Originally Posted by skidrov

It could be a lot of things but yup, Defenders do have ignition switch issues. It's a $40ish or $100ish part (pattern v Lucas) and about 1 to 2 hours work to change (my experience on a MY10 car). I'd try replacing the switch before the key barrel - the switch is at the end of the barrel.

So, the switch and barrel are a separate unit and can be bought separately then ??

rob

I have heard of this happening when people have a bunch of heavy keys on the key ring. The switch etc cant deal with the weight banging around in it.

Originally Posted by Robmacca

So, the switch and barrel are a separate unit and can be bought separately then ??

On my car, a MY10, yes. Not sure about your 300Tdi, TBH - I've only ever worked on my car from a Defender POV, and obviously there's an age difference between our vehicles.

So, my $AU 0.02 - I'd be:

- removing the cowl around the ignition switch to see what type it is, i.e separate switch from barrel or not, and then contacting a parts supplier (and/or hitting the various on-line outlets)
- also thinking if it could be the starter motor: how old is the starter motor, could the solenoid be on its way out? (it may not be the switch)
- is there a relay in your car's ignition circuit somewhere that likewise could be feeling its age? (again, it may not be the switch)

Hope that helps... these things can be a PITA to find. I have a thread somewhere on the fun I had with a similar issue.

If it is the Ignition Switch, and u were stuck in the middle of nowhere, what would be required to "hot-wire" it to get it started ??

With the ignition on, is it as simple as a positive to the Starter motor solenoid?

Replying based on hypothesis, not experience: if all that was fried was the feed to the solenoid, then yes a positive wire to the solenoid should start it, I think, if the ignition is on. It assumes all other circuits are OK - for example, I think the 300Tdi has a fuel cut-off solenoid that has to be triggered open? So, if that is working OK, then it should either hot wire start or roll start I would guess.

When my starter died, I could roll start the car with the ignition on - again, this was a Puma 2.4, not a 300Tdi. And, I think someone else commented that they set up a hot wire like you're describing to start their Puma when their starter switch died. [Side note: the Puma starter is really buried, so I would hope the 300Tdi is easier to get to to do this.]

But, I don't think I'd go bush with a question mark over my starting circuit. Yes, you can start most stuff by devious methods, but why look for extra challenges!