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Thread: Looking to buy a 10yo Defender

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Looking to buy a 10yo Defender

    I'm looking at a neat MY09 Defender(110) with just under 100,000k on it. I think I might buy it.
    I've no idea yet of the vehicles history, but 10,000k/year is a good ratio.

    What sort of issues might it have at this mileage to look for? And what can I expect in the next 50,000k?


    Peter.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Off the top of my head,
    Turbo hoses
    Front wheel bearings
    Driveline slop (plenty of threads on here)
    Lift is bad mmmkay (without a double cardan front shaft)


    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  3. #3
    DiscoMick Guest
    My Defender is also a 2009 110 with 103,000 kms.
    Pull up the front footwell mats and see if the bolts holding the floor to firewall are rusting. If so, soak in rust converter and then oil.
    Does the clutch rattle? If so the springs might be loose and the clutch may need replacing. It was a known fault. An LR clutch upgrade is about $1600. I paid $2600 for an AP HD clutch.
    Do the roof or gutters leak? Roofs leak at the joint where the flat roof meets the sloping panel at the front. Gutters can leak if too much weight has been placed on the roof. I used translucent gutter sealer on mine.
    Has the correct grade of engine oil been used when servicing? It must be non-DPF oil approved by Ford or LR.
    Has the fuel filter in front of the driver's side rear wheel been changed regularly? They get overlooked.
    Is there rust in the chassis rails or the rear cross member? They need regular flushing with a high pressure hose to remove mud and sand.
    Defender's are relatively simple and bulletproof if the basics are looked after.
    There is a Haynes manual for Defenders which is worth every dollar, I reckon.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Gents, good information.

    I'm going to have a look at it on Wednesday.

  5. #5
    DiscoMick Guest
    After buying mine I discovered the fuel filter appeared to be the original and had rusted inside. One day it just cracked and started leaking diesel in the carport. They should be changed with every oil change. Worth every cent of the $100 cost of a genuine filter.
    BTW there is no pump in the fuel tank of the 2.4 (the 2.2 has a pump) so fill the new filter with diesel before fitting it or the engine will be starved of fuel and won't start.

  6. #6
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    Bought it on Wednesday - sent it back on Thursday with a split turbo hose (thanks Tote). Everything else seems ok

    When is the timing belt due?

  7. #7
    DiscoMick Guest
    I got mine done at 80,000 ks, as there was no record of it having been replaced. The old belt looks fine so I kept it as a spare.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    I got mine done at 80,000 ks, as there was no record of it having been replaced. The old belt looks fine so I kept it as a spare.
    What are you going to do with a spare timing belt? Re use it?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    BTW there is no pump in the fuel tank of the 2.4 (the 2.2 has a pump) so fill the new filter with diesel before fitting it or the engine will be starved of fuel and won't start.

    Curious, but shouldn't be some sort of primer/hand pump in the engine to cater for when u are changing your fuel filter? Most other cars have some sort of fuel priming pump under the bonnet.....

  10. #10
    DiscoMick Guest
    Just fill the filter, pump the accelerator a few times and off it goes.

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