Off the top of my head,
Turbo hoses
Front wheel bearings
Driveline slop (plenty of threads on here)
Lift is bad mmmkay (without a double cardan front shaft)
Regards,
Tote
I'm looking at a neat MY09 Defender(110) with just under 100,000k on it. I think I might buy it.
I've no idea yet of the vehicles history, but 10,000k/year is a good ratio.
What sort of issues might it have at this mileage to look for? And what can I expect in the next 50,000k?
Peter.
Off the top of my head,
Turbo hoses
Front wheel bearings
Driveline slop (plenty of threads on here)
Lift is bad mmmkay (without a double cardan front shaft)
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
My Defender is also a 2009 110 with 103,000 kms.
Pull up the front footwell mats and see if the bolts holding the floor to firewall are rusting. If so, soak in rust converter and then oil.
Does the clutch rattle? If so the springs might be loose and the clutch may need replacing. It was a known fault. An LR clutch upgrade is about $1600. I paid $2600 for an AP HD clutch.
Do the roof or gutters leak? Roofs leak at the joint where the flat roof meets the sloping panel at the front. Gutters can leak if too much weight has been placed on the roof. I used translucent gutter sealer on mine.
Has the correct grade of engine oil been used when servicing? It must be non-DPF oil approved by Ford or LR.
Has the fuel filter in front of the driver's side rear wheel been changed regularly? They get overlooked.
Is there rust in the chassis rails or the rear cross member? They need regular flushing with a high pressure hose to remove mud and sand.
Defender's are relatively simple and bulletproof if the basics are looked after.
There is a Haynes manual for Defenders which is worth every dollar, I reckon.
Thanks Gents, good information.
I'm going to have a look at it on Wednesday.
After buying mine I discovered the fuel filter appeared to be the original and had rusted inside. One day it just cracked and started leaking diesel in the carport. They should be changed with every oil change. Worth every cent of the $100 cost of a genuine filter.
BTW there is no pump in the fuel tank of the 2.4 (the 2.2 has a pump) so fill the new filter with diesel before fitting it or the engine will be starved of fuel and won't start.
Bought it on Wednesday - sent it back on Thursday with a split turbo hose (thanks Tote). Everything else seems ok
When is the timing belt due?
I got mine done at 80,000 ks, as there was no record of it having been replaced. The old belt looks fine so I kept it as a spare.
Just fill the filter, pump the accelerator a few times and off it goes.
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