Thread: Rover Diff & LT230 Rebuild Brisbane

The best I can help with is that I had to get my LT230(D1) done not long after I got said D1.
Cost me $1850 changeover, but decided to get the extended sump for it too, at an extra $150 .. so $2K all up.

mine is a daily driver, so I didn't have much option in having mine rebuilt .. and they reckon they do the sleeve mod for the intermediate shaft.

Charged me $400 to fit the TC, but also fit a rear donut and a serpentine tensioner .. 6hrs turnaround.

Can't help with Brisbane based places, but they're the prices I paid about 2 yr ago.

Worth getting a quote from Ashcrofts from UK. As above, ensure you get the intermediate shaft bore in the casing bushed, or you will never stop it leaking.

Originally Posted by POD

Worth getting a quote from Ashcrofts from UK. ....

I did .. not worth it(in the financial sense) .. may be worth it being an Aschroft built box, as you would expect it to be high quality workmanship.

As I remember it, they quoted close on $500 for shipping(makes sense considering the turn around time and weight of the thing, but you have to factor in the 200Pound core deposit as well .. and don't forget the GST!

All up I think it was going to cost me over $2300Au to get it to my place in about a week. I could easily have fitted it myself over a weekend, I have no doubt .. but I went with the exchange unit here in Aus.
BTW, had to drive 1400klms to get it exchanged tho! They gave a 40K klm warranty .. which, happily, I never had to call into service.
55(ish)K klms later, still tight, noise free, and more importantly leak free!

Originally Posted by AK83

The best I can help with is that I had to get my LT230(D1) done not long after I got said D1.
Cost me $1850 changeover, but decided to get the extended sump for it too, at an extra $150 .. so $2K all up.

mine is a daily driver, so I didn't have much option in having mine rebuilt .. and they reckon they do the sleeve mod for the intermediate shaft.

Charged me $400 to fit the TC, but also fit a rear donut and a serpentine tensioner .. 6hrs turnaround.

Can't help with Brisbane based places, but they're the prices I paid about 2 yr ago.

It all helps Arthur. Many thanks

Mine is a daily drive also, therefor suspect I'm looking down the same path.

Originally Posted by POD

Worth getting a quote from Ashcrofts from UK. As above, ensure you get the intermediate shaft bore in the casing bushed, or you will never stop it leaking.

Thanks for the advice POD, will do. Suspect it might be easier to swap them out than rebuild so will investigate.

i had an lt230 done at mr auto @ kipparing a few months ago swap in done in 2 days

ring them and they will give you an accurate quote depending on the model.

Hi Hilly, from one of your earlier posts you mention an '04 90" 160K, I assume this is what you're referring to here ?

Depending on how hard a life its had I would have thought the transfer case, with the exception of the centre diff shims/side washers should still be OK. Similarly I would have thought it was a bit soon for the intermediate shaft to be spewing oil ?

Replacing the centre diff shims/side washers isn't really difficult to do. Someone mentioned in another earlier thread that it's possible to remove the centre diff 'nose' without removing the whole transfer case which could make this job even easier I can't comment on this as I've only done it (work on TC) on the workbench. Replacing these items (less than $50) will do wonders for drive train slop and if you install a single piece cross pin or go nuts and fit a centre diff ATB even better.

Note that it's normal to have 45 degrees of rotational 'slop' in the front drive shaft with the handbrake on (rear drive shaft locked) and nothing limiting rotation of the front drive shaft (ie. front wheels jacked up or drive shaft disconnected) and with the centre diff locked.

It all comes down to time and money really and whether it's your thing to do it yourself.

As for the Rover diffs, well they're not really 'top class' to begin with so there's not much room for ignoring slop here without risking catastrophic results. If you drop the drive shafts at the diff drive flange check carefully for sideways/up and down slop in the pinion, there should be none at all. Make sure the pinion nut/bolt is tight. Sideways carrier slop in the diff is easily adjusted but after 160K km probably a good idea for new side bearings anyway.

Axle flanges are another notorious source of drive train slop in the Defender and hopefully an easy fix if this is the case.

Deano

Originally Posted by DeanoH

Hi Hilly, from one of your earlier posts you mention an '04 90" 160K, I assume this is what you're referring to here ?

Depending on how hard a life its had I would have thought the transfer case, with the exception of the centre diff shims/side washers should still be OK. Similarly I would have thought it was a bit soon for the intermediate shaft to be spewing oil ?

Replacing the centre diff shims/side washers isn't really difficult to do. Someone mentioned in another earlier thread that it's possible to remove the centre diff 'nose' without removing the whole transfer case which could make this job even easier I can't comment on this as I've only done it (work on TC) on the workbench. Replacing these items (less than $50) will do wonders for drive train slop and if you install a single piece cross pin or go nuts and fit a centre diff ATB even better.

Note that it's normal to have 45 degrees of rotational 'slop' in the front drive shaft with the handbrake on (rear drive shaft locked) and nothing limiting rotation of the front drive shaft (ie. front wheels jacked up or drive shaft disconnected) and with the centre diff locked.

It all comes down to time and money really and whether it's your thing to do it yourself.

As for the Rover diffs, well they're not really 'top class' to begin with so there's not much room for ignoring slop here without risking catastrophic results. If you drop the drive shafts at the diff drive flange check carefully for sideways/up and down slop in the pinion, there should be none at all. Make sure the pinion nut/bolt is tight. Sideways carrier slop in the diff is easily adjusted but after 160K km probably a good idea for new side bearings anyway.

Axle flanges are another notorious source of drive train slop in the Defender and hopefully an easy fix if this is the case.

Deano

I really appreciate you taking the time to provide such a detailed response Deano. It provides a great reference point to troubleshoot from.

It is the same D90, yes. I'm working from the least expensive up and so have replaced the rear axle shafts and installed Terrafirma Axle Flanges all round. From there will start digging a bit deeper into both the TC and Diff.

Thanks again for the guidance. Cheers

Hilly