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Thread: Installing Dynamat in 300Tdi

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by travelrover View Post
    Did you manage to remove the fir tree fasteners without snapping them?
    Some lived...some died. .

    Supercheap usually have a selection on the shelf, I have always carried a couple of packets in the shed.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Richmond, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fubar View Post
    Some lived...some died. .

    Supercheap usually have a selection on the shelf, I have always carried a couple of packets in the shed.
    That’s worth knowing for my next trip to Supercheap. Thanks
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Richmond, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    I lined the interior of the Oka cabin with Dynamat about five years ago. The Oka has similar acoustics, or lack there of as the Defender, probably worse really as the Oka is a 'cab over' vehicle similar to a 110. It involved a fair bit of messing around but not terribly difficult. The main thing I learnt early on was to make sure the metal surfaces were clean and dust free to gain good adhesion and not to 'de sticky' the Dynamt.

    I fitted a single layer to the floor and foot well sides and every other surface with a double layer to the engine sides, side covers and hatch. I covered it all with thin marine type carpet stuck on with contact adhesive. I also removed the internal door covers and covered the insides of the doors outer skin as well.

    The result was remarkable. I don't know much about low freq vs hight freq, percentage coverage or any other technical stuff but I do know that I can now listen to the radio, CB etc without having the sound levels up high. I can converse with SWMBO without shouting and use the mobile phone, err ....... the passenger can use the mobile phone whilst on the go . Traveling is much more pleasant and comfortable.

    It cost me around $600 at the time and was worth every penny and hour spent. Lining the inside of the doors made a significant difference to the overall outcome and is IMO definitely worth doing.

    Deano
    Thanks Deano

    Did you use any special cleaning agent that doesn’t leave a residue? Or just meths or similar?
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    West Gippsland - Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by travelrover View Post
    Thanks Deano

    Did you use any special cleaning agent that doesn’t leave a residue? Or just meths or similar?
    I just used water as the real enemy here is dust which de stickys the (expensive) Dynamat making it impossible to stick back on. On oily bits I gave them a bit of a spray with degreaser and then cleaned with soapy water to remove the degreaser residue.

    Deano
    66 SIIA SWB .......73 SIII LWB diesel wgn
    86 RR 'classic'......99 Range Rover P38a
    94 Defender 110..95 Defender 130 Ute
    96 D1 300TDi.......99 D2 TD5 (current)
    04 D2a Td5..........02 Disco 2 V8

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Firstly, one should enjoy the sound of a Defender! I think the goal is to make the sound less ‘noisy’ and more enjoyable for the driver to listen to, not necessarily overall reduction in decibels. I’ve spent years playing bass guitar in bands; everything from pubs to festival stages. A good ‘live mix’ isn’t a quiet one, but one where all the instruments can be heard. I think of managing sound in a Landrover in a similar way; it’s like applying an EQ across the total sound scape. Get rid of the high pitch rattly piercing sounds where possible. Manage the low end ‘drone’ sounds. You should be able to have a conversation with your passenger, without shouting, that’s the realistic goal.

    Sound moves in air AND is transmitted by surfaces that can vibrate into air. So, you can affect the properties of surfaces to minimise their ability to transmit sound, and you can apply materials to absorb sound energy. I’ve achieved acceptable results in my truck by using ‘dynamat’ like products on the flooring and foot wells etc. On top of this I have a closed cell foam cut into shape that is not glued down but can pulled for hosing out. The result is functional; the sound in the cabin is ‘nicer’ it’s less harsh on the ears yet I can still enjoy the sound of the turbo and so on. The heater is also more effective due to the insulative properties of the foam inserts. There is a place in Tas called Foam Land, they had everything I needed, including range of adhesive foam tapes. $200 or less of materials.

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