Thread: Help with Smokey td5

Originally Posted by Smokey1

Hey guys new here!!
Got a Defender td5 and she has started smoking on take off after idling at lights or extended crawling in 1st etc (Grey/Blue smoke)

Check out my youtube vid:
YouTube
YouTube

Has done loads of k's 320k and is blowing fumes from oil filler.
Runs and starts well no loss of power, new turbo and chip tuned a couple of years ago.

Any help from anyone who has been down this road would be appreciated.

Hey fellow Landy Lovers,
My bad Smokey1 was my second account, i thought my first account wasn't working and started a new one.
Well mods notified me and i have now reactivated my old account.
I'm really concerned about my girl (see above)
Does anyone have any ideas, would i be able to tell if valve seals or injectors are faulty by removing crank case for inspections?

I think you might not want to hear the truth

Fuming is not good and the blue smoke out the back is not good either in my opinion it points to terminal

Has the motor been dusted at all ? does it use oil ?

Might be time for a compression check which might answer some of your questions i think

The smoke appears to have quite a black component but looking from behind or above would give a clearer picture.

How many kms since the last oil change and was the correct oil used?

Remembering from my younger days, blue smoke from an overhead valve engine after lots of idling usually indicated that oil was getting past the valve stem seals, either because the seals had gone hard or the guides too badly worn or both.

How long since the inter-cooler was cleaned?

Hey Guys,
Thanks for the replies.
What does dusting down the engine mean?
She had used about 2ltrs of oil in the last 10000ks, was previously running penrite 5w40 but chucked in some 15w40 to see if would make a difference.
Removed and flushed intercooler a month ago when i installed catch can, cleaned MAF and temp sensors.
There was oil dripping back out of inlet manifold when i removed intake pipe.
Still pulls like a train, could it be injectors?

'Dusting' is when you have bypass around the air cleaner, e.g. a poorly sealed element, hose lose upstream, etc. and the engine ingests unfiltered air and rings and bore suffer serious wear.

It doesn't take much to kill an engine, sometimes only 1/2-1 hour run time and the engine is toast.

FWIW air filtration is far more important than the oil filter for long, reliable engine life.

BTW a 15w-40 oil will make no difference in consumption compared to a 5w-40, they are the same viscosity at normal operating temps and for that matter most temps above 0°

Over-fuelling wont cause oil consumption but leaking injector seals will allow the oil to be diluted and vaporised more readily producing excessive crankcase gasses, although a rising oil level is the usual visible indication. Using 2L in 10K is a lot. Are steel head locating dowels fitted? If not then the head may have walked although compression usually gets into the coolant when this happens.

Thanks again for the replies.
Have been going over receipts from previous owner on previous work done.
There was a charge for cylinder head reco back in 2014 for $670 + $593 for bolt kit and gasket set.
Does that price seem right?
(apparently the bores looked like new so they didn't touch the bottom end)

If they didn't replace the locators with metal ones is there a way to visually check if the head has walked without removing the head?

It just doesn't make sense that its blowing so much smoke after idling and not up hills or under heavy load (other than the usual from a 330k tuned engine ) which makes me think its not the rings.

Anyway contemplating just pulling the head off to have a look...

Moved heads sometimes result in valves rubbing on bores. Mine's head had moved 2-3mm sideways judging by the shape of the dowels but no bore damage, with compression into the coolant the trigger for the head removal and found to have been leaking close to the front of the head.

Note that LR state that the steel dowels fitted to later engines are unsuitable for replacing the earlier plastic dowels because they risk cracking the head. I assumed that the steel dowels were longer but wasn't able to confirm so used sections of the shank of an 8mm drill bit which fitted snugly. If the 2014 head work followed LR's advice then plastic dowels would have been used. However I'm more inclined to suspect valve stem seals as the culprit especially if the smoke is worst after idling.