Thread: Another adapter shaft bites the dust

Geez,thats a PITA..

You didn't use the Ashcroft adapter shaft?

Supposedly lasts a lot longer.

Fitted one into the Puma in my sig not that long ago.

Now the clutch slave cylinder is leaking,another PITA problem to repair as it is a not so great Ford design

Oh,as for grease,can't help,earth to JC or Dazza?

Maybe send them a PM.

My theory (I am just DIY home mechanic

But my thinking (after reading a few papers) is there are four factors involved in the fretting damage of splined coupling.

-Torque transmitted
Lubrication or not
Misalignment
Tolerance

To exclude torque and tolerance, the suspects are either like lubrication or misalignment (or both)

I will say in your case, its more of a misalignment issue?

I think the adapter shaft seems fine in my "tuned" my13 puma. Touch wood......(I don't think shaft is lubed but maybe of a better alignment between tbox and gerabox

Cheers

That's crap Pat.

Use something with lots of lubricating solids in it.

An easy one is CAT Desert grease.
It's only 5% moly but should be ok ( most commercial moly fortified greases only use 2-3%) and will resist rust and moisture really well due to the soap used.
If it's ok for a CAT dozer or scraper it should be fine for a spud shaft.
I've used it for years in drive shaft splines, ball joints, etc.
Westrac have it in stock.

Dow Corning make some clever ones they call 'pastes' and named Molykote for use in lathe beds, chucked, etc
They are loaded with moly and will resist water too.

I took it out today,the damn haft had worked forward into the transfer so only the last third of the splines were engaged.I might try the CAT grease Rick with a silicone hose slid over the joint to hold it in.Another way I was thinking was to assemble with a bead of silicone,might do the lot.Anyway,it took all of an hour and a half to get out,I'm getting good at it. Pat

Originally Posted by PAT303

I took it out today,the damn haft had worked forward into the transfer so only the last third of the splines were engaged.I might try the CAT grease Rick with a silicone hose slid over the joint to hold it in.Another way I was thinking was to assemble with a bead of silicone,might do the lot.Anyway,it took all of an hour and a half to get out,I'm getting good at it. Pat

Have you considered the Ashcroft unit as suggested?
IMO it’s the best solution to this weak link and I fitted one to ours.
Have look at how Ashcroft’s have modified the original items introducing the gearbox oil for lubricant and make a sealing sleave to finish it the way it should be from factory.
Ashcroft Transmissions
i bought mine from Les Richmond as an off the shelf item.

G'Day Pat.
I think the term "Copper Grease" was used when Gracie's was replaced.
Pickles.

Originally Posted by PAT303

I took it out today,the damn haft had worked forward into the transfer so only the last third of the splines were engaged.

Had the clip that holds it in place broken or was it never seated properly to begin with?

Originally Posted by Pickles2

G'Day Pat.
I think the term "Copper Grease" was used when Gracie's was replaced.
Pickles.

That's just anti-seize paste.
The two most common flavours are nickel based or copper based.
Mostly used on fasteners, etc that you don't want galling and rusting/corroding when assembled.

For fretting and relative movement that will also cope with EP type loads I feel something with moly, graphite and in the old days, lead work best.
The best greases for plunging spline shafts are generally moly fortified, when hydrodynamic lubrication starts to fail and boundary layer properties are required the plating action of molybdenumdisulphide under pressure and load is pretty much unbeatable.

The Ashcroft solution is probably the optimal one.
It harks back to the LT230 input spline problems of the early 90's and driveshaft/drive flange fretting of grease lubed wheel bearing 110/130's and the solution most used. Get oil in there!