Thread: MY12 Puma 2.2l Gearbox issue/question

I believe the correct procedure when changing from low to high is to maintain pressure on the trans case lever while you drive off and back off on the accelerator.

They do tend to pop out of high range if you don’t do this method although it normally happens soon after you start driving in high.

How many k’s between changing back into high and it popping out?

Hi Weeds,
Thanks for the response, it was not a problem with it popping out of High Range, as i have had exactly that occur in the past an that completely popped out and had no drive.
On this occasion it could not be put into gear as in high range was engage but 5th or any gear could not be engaged, it was "locked out".
I had an exchange with a guy named Darren in WA who was super helpful, he was suggesting the centre diff could have bound up cause the "lock out".

I got the mechanic drop the gear box fluid and also the fluid out of the transfer case, he said the transfer case had some metal filings, some of which were brass. Which he said was more a concern. indicating the brass could be to do with a synchro mesh or bushing.

He indicated that there will probably be more warning signs before complete failure, as it will cost the same to refurbish or replace, and to keep driving until then. This was also the same advice provided by a another Land Rover specialist in Victoria.

Some of the "google" research that I have done, indicates that this scenario is not unique case with the 6 speed gearbox.

If any has any other suggestions on a course of action for preventative maintenance that be appreciated?
Knowing my luck I will be in the middle of no where or it will be my wife driving when it completely fails and she will be cussing me and the Defender! She doesn't understand the attraction!

Pete

Originally Posted by Petervano

Hi Weeds,
Thanks for the response, it was not a problem with it popping out of High Range, as i have had exactly that occur in the past an that completely popped out and had no drive.
On this occasion it could not be put into gear as in high range was engage but 5th or any gear could not be engaged, it was "locked out".
[...]

Perhaps this is relevant? (It refers to being stuck IN a gear... but I can imagine it possibly applying to being stuck in neutral too)

Ashcroft Transmissions

Originally Posted by tact

Perhaps this is relevant? (It refers to being stuck IN a gear... but I can imagine it possibly applying to being stuck in neutral too)

Ashcroft Transmissions

That would just suck driving home at 15 km/hr bouncing off the rev limiter. The Mustang boys whinge about getting stuck in 3rd but if you read the reasons why some of them hot shift at 7,000 rpm.

Originally Posted by Petervano

Hi Weeds,

I had an exchange with a guy named Darren in WA who was super helpful, he was suggesting the centre diff could have bound up cause the "lock out".

I got the mechanic drop the gear box fluid and also the fluid out of the transfer case, he said the transfer case had some metal filings, some of which were brass. Which he said was more a concern. indicating the brass could be to do with a synchro mesh or bushing.

He indicated that there will probably be more warning signs before complete failure, as it will cost the same to refurbish or replace, and to keep driving until then. This was also the same advice provided by a another Land Rover specialist in Victoria.

or it will be my wife driving when it completely fails and she will be cussing me and the Defender! She doesn't understand the attraction!

*Re Darren WA - That was me, what I speculated and said was it sounded like the centre diff had inadvertently been locked in (pushed to the left) and then had been driven on the road locked in until there was enough binding on the driveline that gears could not be selected. You said at one point you got the Defender to roll back, heard a clunk then you drove it ok.

*Re mechanic comment "he said the transfer case had some metal filings, some of which were brass. Which he said was more a concern. indicating the brass could be to do with a synchro mesh or bushing." Completely wrong, they were copper and they are whats left of the side shims for the centre diff gears. There is no synchro mesh in the transfer case. Its also likely to do another 100 - 200K before needing a re-build at around $1800.00
*What would have been a concern if there was any large pieces, this would suggest that something broke inside the transfer case.
*Small fine shavings on the magnet drain plug arent uncommon and generally can be ignored.

*Re wife, if there was a choice, I'd keep the Defender.... but hey thats just me

Yeah, I would drive it all the time, however
a) we have a farm and the defender is the only vehicle we have that can fit the two young kids in it that can get around hilly farm other than the our tractor which fits one person
b) Last time I left it at the train station, some fecker knocked off my winch and light bar so I am reluctant to leave it near any station that would have that happen again.

Considering I still have to work off farm, to sustain the family for the next few years.

I am restoring a Series II, hopefully when thats done, I can redeem myself from my wife driving my Defender.