Those things bolted to the chassis from factory are NOT RECOVERY POINTS.
I’d be sus even of those “jate rings” people use to replace the factory tie-down points.
Does anyone see a problem with these, tow bar based recover points for snatching vs the rings bolted to the chasis? Are the standard Def recover points good enough? What is best practice?![]()
Those things bolted to the chassis from factory are NOT RECOVERY POINTS.
I’d be sus even of those “jate rings” people use to replace the factory tie-down points.
Neil
(Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
MY2025.5 110 D250 S MHEV (L663)
In Memoriam:
MY2013 110 TDCi DCPU purchased new from Land Rover Malaysia in May 2013.
...traded in for the above L663 in December 2025.
Nulla tenaci invia est via
I have exactly that set up & have snatched plenty with it. The rings are for trailer safety chains only.
BTW, That's an interesting addition of the bolt to stop the towbar from vibration. My Deefer makes so many assorted noises, it would be impossible to tell if mine vibrated or not..
One way to go, doesn’t require a bull bar, is fitting under body protection that incorporates recovery points. Something like this:
APT Steering Guard | Defender
Neil
(Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
MY2025.5 110 D250 S MHEV (L663)
In Memoriam:
MY2013 110 TDCi DCPU purchased new from Land Rover Malaysia in May 2013.
...traded in for the above L663 in December 2025.
Nulla tenaci invia est via
Same here. I have used small padlocks for the last decade like that. If you cut an old bike tyre inner tube (or similar) and wrap it around the padlock - that covers the lock and stops it from getting filled with dust, dirt, etc. but you can still easily access the lock when required.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
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