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Thread: 300tdi timing issues

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    supportable, have seen this twice when you buy fly by wire injector lines in place of ours....... trying to get the right pipe from the right injector to the right valve on the IP needs a touch of massaging.
    Exactly, that was also something we have come across 👍. We were fitting an EDC engine to a d1 and the owner supplied us a local injection pump to fit in place of the electronic one, but no lines......
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #12
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    Bit of an update

    Hi All

    I removed the pump took it back to the injection specialist and he confirmed he had indeed timed the pump wrong when he fitted the drive hub.
    He had timed it to A and not C as per the instructions I gave him, when I took it back this time.

    I refitted the pump, this time it started but now no revs! Whatever I do with the throttle arm no revs, if I remove the throttle arm from the spindle, I can now get it to rev by twisting the spindle, but the pickup is very slow also the pump is very noisy! A distinct and loud rattle, considerably louder than my original pump! When I was trying to get it going originally, I swapped the stop solenoid over and noticed some silver powder (Fine Swarf?), which I am sure is a bad sign!

    So, for what feels like the 100th time I removed the pump and refitted the original.

    I am now unsure where to go from here, I am concerned that the specialist does not know my injector pump very well, He has timed it, ran it on his test bed, tested it and reset it all to factory settings. But not noticed it would not rev nor that it is very noisy! He is a very nice chap, but I am losing confidence in him.

    I am tempted to give up with this pump as I don’t feel I should invest any more money in a rattly pump (I am guessing it is worn out!). I paid $400 for it second hand on eBay and $300 having the specialist do his work, I knew it was a gamble buying second hand and it would appear I lost this gamble!

    Now I have had a practice on the second-hand pump, I will probably put a new seal in the distributor head on my existing pump to cure the leak, swap over the boost pin and ring that I fitted and stick with this pump!

    I would appreciate people’s thoughts.



    Phil

  3. #13
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    Another thought

    I have read a lot about lift pumps not supplying enough fuel causing the FIP to rattle, some of the videos on Youtube do sound similar.

    But when I put the original pump back on its fine with no rattling!

    So I'm thinking it cant be the Lift Pump?

    Phil

  4. #14
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    The swarf means that pump is cactus I'm afraid.
    Probably hard facing flaking off the cam ring....🙄
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by philandmickey View Post
    Another thought

    I have read a lot about lift pumps not supplying enough fuel causing the FIP to rattle, some of the videos on Youtube do sound similar.

    But when I put the original pump back on its fine with no rattling!

    So I'm thinking it cant be the Lift Pump?

    Phil
    youre right, it could be but its not because, well you outlined it.

    I have seen the vanes on the internal pump section stuck and it gives the same symptoms.

    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    The swarf means that pump is cactus I'm afraid.
    Probably hard facing flaking off the cam ring....🙄
    I'll back that as well as 5 or 6 other bits.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  6. #16
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    Hi

    Kind of thought it was all over, oh well it was worth a try, I think.

    Thanks

    Phil

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