Thread: 10P head to 16P head pressure regulator set-up differences.

The simple answer is fit the 16p regulator to the 16p head.
The 16p has an additional hose to the front of the head.
You can’t fit it the wrong way.
Ignore all that say “plug this that etc”

Hi There,
Thank you Strangy, I really hope it is that simple, I haven't looked at the 10P head arrangement as yet the Deefer is still in the body shop undergoing the removal of cancerous rust from the footwell. I'm rebuilding an engine to put in when "Rose" returns, just deciding whether to put the spare 16P head I have in the shed on (with the injectors from the 10P head in it) the block or wait for the other engine to come out and just get the 10P head serviced and put that on.

Sounds like the 16P head is going on, thank you.

Cheers Marty

Originally Posted by Nomad9

Hi There,
Thank you Strangy, I really hope it is that simple, ....

Yes and no.
Fitting the pipe end to the head isn't what you'd call a simple affair. Removal is also difficult .. unless the inlet manifold has been removed.
The nut for the pipe that bolts to the head is close to impossible to get a tool onto unless you make one up.

But as Stangy said, I'd see that process as the most simple.

Have a look at RAVE(get a copy if you don't have one) and check out pages relating to TD5 fuel system. There is a diagram showing the differences so you know before hand what's involved.

ps. for future removal/installation (on my brothers 15P), I cut the pipe at the straight bit to get a long socket over the pipe and onto the nut.
Were going to fit another pipe with a quick connect end on the hose end of the pipe, but the mod we did with cutting the pipes free of the hose we just fitted a length of fuel hose with two clamps.
Well over a year ago now, still going strong with the clamps.
I think that additional line is low pressure(fuel return?) so the hose clamps hold up fine.
The only issue with this mod is that the hose needs some length to allow for the bend it needs to make, so to maintain a large radius turn. If too tight, it'll kink(bad!) .. so a 90° elbow would be handy.
The issue of the large radius turn in the hose is that it'll rub against something, so needs to be held back to prevent this .. and eventual leaking due to possible rubbing.

Hi AK83,
Both engines will be out in my shed so the inlet manifold will be off, I've got the Rave manual I'll have another look I didn't see anything when I looked initially.

Thanks for the assistance. Cheers Marty

Originally Posted by Nomad9

.... I've got the Rave manual I'll have another look I didn't see anything when I looked initially.

...

OK, so easy to do then.
When you look at the RAVE pages, you'll see one main diagram of the fuel system, and another diagram in a sub box on the same page.
One marked Pre EU3 and the other EU3 .. it'll make sense when you see it.

Hi There,
So I have now got the rave manual out, the fuel circuit wasn't shown on the Deefer Rave disc however was shown on the D2 Rave disc. So I'll fit the 15P head to the 10P block. The head will have the 16P pressure regulator fitted... right. Both the 10P and the 16P regulators have an HP and LP connections. why can't I just replicate the 10P connections onto the 16P regulator, the only difference is the LP connection that comes from the front of the head to the connection on the 16P regulator. Or am I missing something here?

Cheers Marty

I just had a later head fitted to my 10P and they fitted a later cooler even though my early cooler was brand new, well new re-conditioned.

Unfortunately I didn’t ask if I could have kept the early cooler apart from them saying it was the best way forward.

Originally Posted by Nomad9

..... Both the 10P and the 16P regulators have an HP and LP connections. why can't I just replicate the 10P connections onto the 16P regulator, .....

I'm not fluent in TD5 speak, but I think the issue is that the return line on the 10P is 'internal', that is, look at the diagram the return returns back inside the head.
So you need to drill your 10P regulator block to allow it to accept the return line which is on the mating face of the regulator block.
You'd need to block the return line on the mating face too.

Just sounds easier to replace it with the proper part.